Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Wilson and Rick Accomazzo, June 1974
Page Views: 4,273 total · 29/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'

P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goes straight up. Trends right, then up a thin crack which closes, to a single bolt which protects some thin face moves on good knobs. A three bolt belay, two of which are equipped with rap rings. 170'

I would not suggest trying to link the pitches. It may be possible to do with a 70m, but it would be a little unpleasant. You definitely cannot do it with a 60m.

The route does top out, and the next pitch looks like AWESOME! lower angle knob climbing... but with zero pro. For those bolder than me, looks pretty fun up there.

Location

100 feet east of the Yawn. 70 feet east of Wailing wall. Look for the crack that shoots up dead vertical above the blocky ledge.

Protection

Standard rack. You could use a #4 camalot to protect that OW move on the first pitch, and you could place it on the 2nd, but not necessary. I didn't use any small stuff.

You need two 60m ropes to rap the route.

Photos