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Routes in Medlicott Dome, Left

Lighter Side, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loco Yokel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scorpion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wailing Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yawn, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Wilson and Rick Accomazzo, June 1974
Page Views: 3,465 total · 27/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'

P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goes straight up. Trends right, then up a thin crack which closes, to a single bolt which protects some thin face moves on good knobs. A three bolt belay, two of which are equipped with rap rings. 170'

I would not suggest trying to link the pitches. It may be possible to do with a 70m, but it would be a little unpleasant. You definitely cannot do it with a 60m.

The route does top out, and the next pitch looks like AWESOME! lower angle knob climbing... but with zero pro. For those bolder than me, looks pretty fun up there.

Location

100 feet east of the Yawn. 70 feet east of Wailing wall. Look for the crack that shoots up dead vertical above the blocky ledge.

Protection

Standard rack. You could use a #4 camalot to protect that OW move on the first pitch, and you could place it on the 2nd, but not necessary. I didn't use any small stuff.

You need two 60m ropes to rap the route.

Photos

FA: June, 1974 Jim Wilson and Rick Accomazzo Jun 28, 2015
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
The linkup is possible with no drag- solo the very easy left variation of the first pitch and voila Jun 28, 2015
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
Linked it into one mega pitch, but had to climb the OW for less rope drag, can be protected by a #3 on the bottom half and #4 near the top, bit of a grunt but not too bad. In retrospect, it would be more enjoyable to do it as 2 pitches, rope drag is unavoidable when you link them, and that makes the last couple of face move quite challenging Nov 15, 2012
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Fun route. I'd recommend doing it as a marathon single pitch, as long as you think about rope drag. Apr 19, 2010
John is right, take the left-most line at the start and it's good quality and fun.

The 3rd pitch is awesome - for about 80 or 100 feet. Then it gets sucky, thin slab with crumbly edges, and the belay is still a ways above you (40' or so). No pro, you can't even tie off a single knob, and since you've gone a bit right, you're looking at falling over the edge of the main blunt arete. Yikes!

Above that are another few pitches, with short bits of steep crack, runout knobs, face, etc. All a bit crumbly here and there, with lots of options. We picked some steeper knobby face to find the best climbing, but it was a bit contrived (i.e. easier dirty climbing off left).

You can also climb up from the 2nd pitch belay, traverse left all the way across the crack-to-ledge, and finish Chicken Little (5.8 R, wandering). The traverse is runout for both leader and follower. Aug 15, 2009
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
There are plenty of options for the first pitch, but most will find the furthest left very pleasant and climbs a nice 5.7 hand crack, not the 4" OW mentioned above which is gross. See the photo for visual aids. Aug 21, 2008