All Locations > Colorado > Wet Mountains > Oak Creek Canyon > Tanner Dome

Abracadabra

Name: Abracadabra
Rating: 2.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Tanner Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	.54 Chunk o' Lead T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	30,000 Casualties T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	70/30 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Abracadabra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Amp Left S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Amp Right S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bob Robertson Memorial Climb S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bull Run S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Bullwinkle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bullwinkle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bushmaster T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chickamauga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chris Barlow Mixed Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Clippers and Saws T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Flee S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ghost Rider T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Ghost Rider Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gimp Verde T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Hanging Judge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Harper's Ferry T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Horizontal Method, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Kennesaw Mountain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	KUTTL T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Landscape Architect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Leftist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	March To The Sea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Merrimac, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Midlife Crisis T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Open Crack Project T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Pendejo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Penny Lane S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Promontory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rebel Yell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rightist S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Road Runner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	SUTTL T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tanner Classic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tanner Dome \| 2504 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Teletubby S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Two Fine People S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown Gully/Corner System T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Vicksburg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Zing S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	38.30838, -105.26009
FA:	Crusher Bartlett, Harvey Carter, November 2004
Page Views:	1,519 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Steve Bartlett on Jul 7, 2015
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek is too. Details

Per Ben Bruestle: Titanic is open to climbing again. South Hardscrabble Creek climbing is open too.

Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Access is closed to climbing April 1 to August 1.

Per b hof: within 3/4 of mile from the West Bear Gulch trail is closed due to the birds.

Description

P1. Pull over a bulge, then go through an area of large huecos. Step right to a large block, pass this gingerly, then continue right and up to a ledge. Climb straight up into a short groove and then to a major boulder-strewn ledge, about ten feet left of an obvious large tree (120', 5.9).

P2. Step left, then go up a few feet to a slanting break. Follow this right for a few moves to its end. Gain a ramp up and left. Continue up the ramp a few feet, then go up the face above. Where it steepens, move right a few feet then up. Belay on a large ledge (95', 5.7).

P3. Climb up a short dihedral, then follow ledges and blocks to the top (30', 5.7).

Location

The route is on the far, far left of Tanner Dome, beyond Ghost Rider. Hike the trail to Clipper and Saws, continue left a 100 yards or so to a major dihedral/chimney system (the start of Ghost Rider). Scramble left and up a couple easy rock slabs to a meadow with a few big trees. Abracadabra begins behind a large tree growing close to the rock, just 2 or 3 feet out from the cliff. The route takes an attractive, slabby face to the halfway ledge, then jogs left a tad, and then goes up to the top.

Descent: hike to summit, then go left (west) and down the gully next to the dome.

Protection

Gear: two each cams from tiny to 2"; one each from 2" to a #4 Camalot; nuts, especially RPs; and shoulder-length slings.

Per Kyle O: with the FA's permission, in Dec. 2023, three stainless steel bolts were added to the start of the first pitch of this climb to protect the first 50 feet that have no trad pro available.