Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Harvey Carter, November 2004
Page Views: 366 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jul 7, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description

P1. Pull over a bulge, then go through an area of large huecos. Step right to a large block, pass this gingerly, then continue right and up to a ledge. Climb straight up into a short groove and then to a major boulder-strewn ledge, about ten feet left of an obvious large tree (120', 5.9).

P2. Step left, then go up a few feet to a slanting break. Follow this right for a few moves to its end. Gain a ramp up and left. Continue up the ramp a few feet, then go up the face above. Where it steepens, move right a few feet then up. Belay on a large ledge (95', 5.7).

P3. Climb up a short dihedral, then follow ledges and blocks to the top (30', 5.7).

Location

The route is on the far, far left of Tanner Dome, beyond Ghost Rider. Hike the trail to Clipper and Saws, continue left a 100 yards or so to a major dihedral/chimney system (the start of Ghost Rider). Scramble left and up a couple easy rock slabs to a meadow with a few big trees. Abracadabra begins behind a large tree growing close to the rock, just 2 or 3 feet out from the cliff. The route takes an attractive, slabby face to the halfway ledge, then jogs left a tad, and then goes up to the top.

Descent: hike to summit, then go left (west) and down the gully next to the dome.

Protection

Gear: two each cams from tiny to 2"; one each from 2" to a #4 Camalot; nuts, especially RPs; and shoulder-length slings.

Photos

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