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Routes in Tanner Dome

.54 Chunk 'o Lead T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
30,000 Casualties T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abracadabra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amp Left S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Amp Right S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bull Run S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bullwinkle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chickamauga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chris Barlow Mixed Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clippers and Saws T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flee S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ghost Rider T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Gimp Verde T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hanging Judge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harper's Ferry T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kennesaw Mountain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Landscape Architect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Leftist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
March To The Sea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Merrimac, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Midlife Crisis T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nathan Forrest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pendejo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rebel Yell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rightist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tanner Classic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Fine People S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vicksburg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Harvey Carter, November 2004
Page Views: 279 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jul 7, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description [Edit]

P1. Pull over a bulge, then go through an area of large huecos. Step right to a large block, pass this gingerly, then continue right and up to a ledge. Climb straight up into a short groove and then to a major boulder-strewn ledge, about ten feet left of an obvious large tree (120', 5.9).

P2. Step left, then go up a few feet to a slanting break. Follow this right for a few moves to its end. Gain a ramp up and left. Continue up the ramp a few feet, then go up the face above. Where it steepens, move right a few feet then up. Belay on a large ledge (95', 5.7).

P3. Climb up a short dihedral, then follow ledges and blocks to the top (30', 5.7).

Location [Edit]

The route is on the far, far left of Tanner Dome, beyond Ghost Rider. Hike the trail to Clipper and Saws, continue left a 100 yards or so to a major dihedral/chimney system (the start of Ghost Rider). Scramble left and up a couple easy rock slabs to a meadow with a few big trees. Abracadabra begins behind a large tree growing close to the rock, just 2 or 3 feet out from the cliff. The route takes an attractive, slabby face to the halfway ledge, then jogs left a tad, and then goes up to the top.

Descent: hike to summit, then go left (west) and down the gully next to the dome.

Protection [Edit]

Gear: two each cams from tiny to 2"; one each from 2" to a #4 Camalot; nuts, especially RPs; and shoulder-length slings.

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