Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,925 total · 21/month
Shared By: Sergio P on Oct 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description

The route begins by scrambling up to the 1st of two wide pods. You can walk a 3.5 cam to protect the first pod. Exit the first pod going over a small bulge with a finger crack. Continue up past the 2nd small pod into the 30' splitter finger crack. Perfect ring locks and laybacking off the lichen covered wall will get you near the top of the crack where you can grab a solid jug. Another 20' of easy face climbing will get you to the anchors.

Per Glenn Schuler: there is a now 2nd pitch.

Location

To find this stellar route, follow the trail to the base of Tanner Dome. There will be a large boulder on your right. Follow the wall to the left (west) until you see a large, left-facing dihedral with the splitter finger crack 40' up.

Protection

#0.3-3.5 Camalots, doubles or even triple #0.4 size. A gray Alien is the ideal, but a #0.4 Camalot works fine. Leave the nuts on the ground. I used a 60m rope.

Photos

Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10+
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10+
This is one of the better crack climbs around for the grade. I feel it's on par with Vanishing Point, Rasmussen's & Finger Lickin' Good at Turkey. Continuous & well-protected, this route is fantastic.

There is now a second pitch to this route. Looked like all bolts and quality climbing above. Anybody know anything about it? Mar 4, 2012