Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,689 total · 9/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description

Amp Right is a good climb, and I thought it was a little easier than Amp Left which starts about 12 feet left of this route.

The 1st pitch is about 5.8+ or 5.9- and goes fairly straight up the rock, aiming to the left of the small pine tree that can be seen in the photo. It is about 10 or 11 bolts on the 1st pitch to a nice two-bolt anchor about 110 feet up.

The 2nd pitch goes up and then bends in an arc a little to the right and then up again. The second pitch is only about 5.7 climbing -- big holds on rock that has not seen much climbing. I can't remember for sure, but I guess the second pitch only requires about 6 or 7 clips before the two-bolt anchor.

Rappel the route to descend. It's about 170 feet to the ground from the anchors of the 2nd pitch, and about 110 feet to the ground from the anchors of the 1st pitch.

Eds. This submission was reassigned after finding the previous description unfulfilling.

Getting There

This route is far right on the same rock as the "Bob Robertson Route". When you get all the way up to Tanner Dome, you will run into some really big boulders (which can be a great warmup spot). When you get to those boulders you crawl all over them in the east going direction. You keep going till you get to the last set of anchors, and it is just right of that. Make sure you bring plenty of quickdraws or you can be brave and skip a few.

Per Rich F.: this is the 2nd route you get to in the scrub oak trees on Tanner Dome -- it's about 20 feet into the trees.

Protection

For pitch 1: 10-11 bolts.

For pitch 2: 6-7? bolts.

Photos