Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,201 total · 25/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Oct 22, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description

Pitch 1: the 5.7 crux move is getting off the ground -- up a six foot vertical slab with good holds for hands. After this steep start and clipping the first bolt above, the rest of the 1st pitch is mostly 5.5ish -- fairly low angle, and mostly big holds to the anchors. It's a little runout, but the climbing is easy. There are about 6 bolts to the anchors.

Pitch 2: this is an easy, short pitch, straight up, with mostly slabbly climbing on fairly low angle rock for another 60 feet. There are about 5 bolts to the anchors. It starts out at about 5.6 and gets easier the higher you climb.

Descent: rappel the route in two rappels from the top.

You could easily combine the two pitches into a single long pitch of about 150 feet.

Location

I highly recommend Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd edition" guidebook for a great description of the routes in the Tanner Dome area and throughout Colorado!

On Tanner Dome, this route is the farthest right of the moderates (#6 in the photo). It's about 30 feet right and up the hill from "Amp Right."

Protection

If done in two pitches, you just need 6 quickdraws.
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
To me, it felt like the crux was between bolts 2 and 3 of the second pitch. If you're feeling a bit run out before the anchors on the first pitch, you can protect the small crack to the left with a #0.5 Camalot. A good climb! Oct 27, 2013