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Areas in Oak Creek Canyon

1st Bend Crag 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hueco Wall 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Tanner Dome 10 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
West Bend Crag 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 7,223 ft
GPS: 38.311, -105.249 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,146 total · 189/month
Shared By: Todd Miller on May 1, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details

Description

Oak Creek Canyon has fantastic climbing in the northern Wet Mountains, 9 miles south of Canon City. It is a fun alternative to Shelf Road, with far more moderates. It is quite popular. There is a site with downloadable guide. I think there are about 150 routes or so, mostly granite sport climbs. I have climbed routes from 5.6 to 5.11, but there are many harder routes if you can climb that hard. Tannner Dome is the primary attraction, though there are many crags on which to climb.

Online guide: users.adelphia.net/~bill.sc….

Getting There

Taken from the online guide:

From Canon City take 4th street left/south, over the Arkansas river, about 1 mile. At this point the road takes a 90 degree left turn. T this point turn right on to county road 143. Drive this until you go up the big hill, you won't miss it. 2 mles after this you park and climbing awaits. on the north side of the road.

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Oak Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Penny Lane
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Flee
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Zing
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Tanner Classic
Sport 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 11
Amp Right
Sport 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 7
Amp Left
Sport 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 10
Landscape Architect
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Kennesaw Mountain
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
The Merrimac
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Rightist
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
30,000 Casualties
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Clippers and Saws
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Pendejo
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Chickamauga
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Vicksburg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Penny Lane Tanner Dome
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Flee Tanner Dome
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Zing Tanner Dome
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Tanner Classic Tanner Dome
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Amp Right Tanner Dome
 11
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Amp Left Tanner Dome
 7
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Landscape Architect Tanner Dome
 10
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Kennesaw Mountain Tanner Dome
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
The Merrimac Tanner Dome
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Rightist Tanner Dome
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
30,000 Casualties Tanner Dome
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Clippers and Saws Tanner Dome
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Pendejo Tanner Dome
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Chickamauga Tanner Dome
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vicksburg Tanner Dome
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Oak Creek Canyon »

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Photos

Isn't this place also called Tanner Dome? May 8, 2004
Ben Bruestle
Pueblo, CO
Ben Bruestle   Pueblo, CO
Tanner Dome is just one of the climbing areas along Oak Creek Grade Road. It is the only one closed anually April 1-July 31 for raptors. Aug 29, 2004
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
A large portion of this area is closed from April 1st to August 1st every year due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. I believe the closure applies to all of the Tanner Dome Complex. You can be fined up to $5,000 and be imprisoned for up to 6 months for violating the closure. The program seems to be working, because I saw a pair of Peregrine's soaring on 5/14/06. I believe the other formations in the area are open. May 18, 2006
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
The link to the online guide referenced above no longer works.

(Edit: To those who sent me a copy or offered to- THANKS!) Sep 18, 2014
Cory Eales
Colorado Springs, CO
Cory Eales   Colorado Springs, CO
Does anyone have a copy of the online guide they would be willing to send? Nov 1, 2015
Whoever is bolting PERFECTLY protect-able cracks in Stultz, you really need to stop! If I was younger, I would be chopping those bolts myself! Apr 21, 2017
Would anyone be willing to send me the guide for Stultz Canyon and Tanner Dome? Oct 16, 2017
Seth K.  
Would anyone be willing to send the a copy of the online guide to me? Feb 1, 2018
slim    
Matt and Seth, I just emailed you a PDF of the Oak Creek area guidebook. If you don't get it, let me know, and I will try to re-send it. Have fun out there, and watch for rattlesnakes, bears, mountain lions, and moonshiners.... Feb 1, 2018
Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
Slim, could I get a copy as well? Thanks. Feb 19, 2018
slim    
Eric, pm sent. Let me know if you don't receive it. Feb 20, 2018
Joey A
Golden
Joey A   Golden
Hey Slim, do you mind forwarding over a copy of the guide to me as well? Thanks so much! Mar 26, 2018
slim    
Just sent you a copy, Joey. If you don't get it, let me know, and I will try again. Mar 26, 2018

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