Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Nelson Lunsford
Page Views: 328 total · 4/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Oct 22, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description

This climbs one pitch -- it starts as steep face climb on small feet and crimps for three bolts, then it has about a 10 foot section of layback then another two or three bolts above the layback flake on easier rock. The crux is getting from the 2nd bolt to the layback, and it is a little height dependent -- will be easier for climbers taller than 6 feet. Overall, it is an excellent climb.

Location

This is the first route you reach on the Great Big Wall. It climbs the center of the pillar on the left side where the trail intersects the Great Big Wall. (Note, there is a harder climb immediately right that goes up the blunt arete of the pillar.)

I highly recommend Stewart Green's guidebook, "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd edition" for a detailed description of this area and others throughout Colorado!

Protection

About 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor (shared with Unquenchable Thirst, 11b/c). Also, I recommend bringing one or two cams from 0.4 to 0.75 to protect the steep layback crack/flake above the third bolt.

Photos

Nelson Lunsford
  5.10
Nelson Lunsford  
  5.10
This is one of my routes. We rated it 5.10. It shares an anchor with Unquenchable Thirst which is 11b/c. Oct 26, 2011
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Thanks for putting the route up, Nelson.
Very nicely done. Oct 27, 2011