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Routes in Tanner Dome

.54 Chunk 'o Lead T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
30,000 Casualties T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abracadabra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amp Left S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Amp Right S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bull Run S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bullwinkle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chickamauga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chris Barlow Mixed Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clippers and Saws T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flee S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ghost Rider T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Gimp Verde T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hanging Judge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harper's Ferry T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kennesaw Mountain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Landscape Architect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Leftist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
March To The Sea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Merrimac, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Midlife Crisis T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nathan Forrest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pendejo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rebel Yell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rightist S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tanner Classic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Fine People S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vicksburg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,076 total · 12/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Oct 22, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description

Pitch 1: (110 feet, 5.10) This is the farthest route left on top of the boulders. The first move is a step across the gap and likely the crux of the climb -- good feet but no hands and hard to stay on the rock. I recommend leaning across and clipping the first bolt (see photo) before stepping across the gap for the climb. Although it is fairly sustained climbing, I thought there was another crux at about bolt four or five. For me, the first pitch of "Rightist" was the hardest of the six moderate routes on Tanner Dome proper. There are about 12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: This goes up and slightly right of a large roof on big holds. Mostly 5.7 climbing, with one move of about 5.8 just past the steep right side of the roof. Above the roof, there is a place where it's a little runout, but you can place a cam (I think I used a #1) in a crack for protection. This pitch is about 80 feet and 8 bolts to the two-bolt anchor. It is mostly 5.7 climbing with maybe one 5.8 move.

Descent: rappel the route in two rappels.

Location

I highly recommend Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd edition" guidebook for a great description of the routes in the Tanner Dome area and throughout Colorado!!!

This is on Tanner Dome. This is farthest route left on top of the boulders -- it starts with a step across about a 3 foot gap over the top of where you hike up. The climb goes straight up towards the right side of a big roof that sits above the anchors of the 1st pitch.

Protection

About a dozen quickdraws. It may be helpful (but not required) to have one Camalot (about a size #1) for the top of the second pitch.

Photos

S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
  5.10a
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
  5.10a
First pitch pumped out the calf muscles big time! Dec 7, 2011
Keith W
  5.10-
Keith W  
  5.10-
Only did the first pitch, but it is a fun one. Pretty sustained most of the way, and some delicate footwork in a few areas. Right off the rock is probably the crux, but there I was another heads up move (for me) in between bolt 7 and 8. Great pitch! Sep 26, 2016
Ben D.
Colorado
5.10b PG13
Ben D.   Colorado
5.10b PG13
I thought this route, Landscape Architect (the route to the right), and Zing (the route to right of LA) were all sandbagged, even for South Platte ratings. This route felt .10b to me. The start took a lot of balance, but the crux was the single finger jam with no feet about halfway up. Fun climb but not a good one if you are a new 5.9 leader. Sep 25, 2018

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