The Horizontal Method
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.30838, -105.26009 |
| FA: | Nelson Lunsford |
| Page Views: | 336 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kyle O on Mar 30, 2024 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Covert Crack climbs an awesome roof/layback crack and is on par with the best trad pitches at Tanner Dome such as Clippers and Saws and 30,000 Casualties. You can protect the climb with great gear pretty much the whole way wherever you feel like placing it. One could aid or French free the crux traverse, if desired.
After scrambling a short, easy ramp, climb a nice stemming section to gain the crack system. Jam/layback your way under the large roof as foot holds get harder to find. Watch for rope drag in and around the roof crack, and extend your pieces accordingly. Traverse over, up, and into a vertical crack section that eventually pares down to perfect hands and horizontal cracks and edges. Gain a large ledge but the climb is not over yet. Continue straight up a crack to another ledge with a bolted ring anchor.
If climbing this route as a single pitch, a 60m rope should barely make it - knot your ends; a 70m rope is best. When toproping, it is best if your belayer belays out and climber's left from the wall in order to reduce rope drag.
This route is the first pitch of the SUTTL link-up route, the SUTTL is a great route and highly recommended!
Location
It climbs the seemingly obvious roof crack climber’s left of the bolted route, Pendejo, and right of the start of Ghost Rider.



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