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Routes in Tanner Dome
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.54 Chunk o' Lead T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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30,000 Casualties T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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70/30 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Abracadabra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Amp Left S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Amp Right S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bob Robertson Memorial Climb S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bull Run S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bullwinkle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bullwinkle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bushmaster T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickamauga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chris Barlow Mixed Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Clippers and Saws T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flee S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ghost Rider T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Ghost Rider Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gimp Verde T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hanging Judge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Harper's Ferry T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Horizontal Method, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kennesaw Mountain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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KUTTL T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Landscape Architect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Leftist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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March To The Sea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Merrimac, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Midlife Crisis T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Open Crack Project T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pendejo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Penny Lane S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Promontory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rebel Yell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rightist S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Road Runner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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SUTTL T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tanner Classic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tanner Dome | 2504 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Teletubby S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Two Fine People S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Gully/Corner System T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vicksburg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Zing S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.30838, -105.26009 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 548 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Kyle O on Mar 11, 2024 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek is too.
Details
Description
Kyle’s Ultimate Tanner Trad Link-up (KUTTL, pronounced like cuttle) is a stellar 3 pitch trad climb of Tanner Dome bottom to top and should not be missed by any trad climbers visiting Tanner Dome. Every pitch is good climbing, and every belay is at a good ledge. This is a great link-up for those who climb 5.9 trad or want a chiller day. In addition, the SUTTL link-up route is an equally high quality trad link-up that contains the same two final pitches of the KUTTL, so if you can climb or french free 5.10 I’d recommend the SUTTL as well.
The link-up consists of the following pitches: P1: P1 of Abracadabra, P2: Ghost Rider Dihedral, and P3: Bushmaster. Start on the route Abracadabra on the west face of Tanner Dome (the farthest climb climber’s left). Identify Abracadabra by the three bolts that protect its initial moves. These are the only three bolts on the entire link-up. Abracadabra tops out at a tree on Halfway Ledge. From here, walk (2nd Class) climber’s right almost until the ledge runs out. From here, you will see P2: Ghost Rider Dihedral . Climb up Ghost Rider Dihedral enjoying nice finger and hand jams making a trad anchor on the obvious ledge when the dihedral peters out. From here, climb P3: Bushmaster by traversing climber’s left on an easy ledge with good gear and good exposure. Climb up the obvious hand crack, and continue straight up to the top of Tanner Dome and a tree belay.
Descent: walk off Tanner Dome to the climber's left (west, 2nd Class) going down the first major gully you come to. Walking off climber's right (east) is very rough and scrambly.
Location
Abracadabra is the farthest route west (climber’s left) on Tanner Dome. From the top of Abracadabra P1, walk climber’s right on the large Halfway Ledge, and climb P2 and P3.
Protection
Cams micro to BD #3 and a set of nuts including small nuts. The small cams and nuts are helpful on P1 of Abracadabra . P1 and 3 have tree anchors, and P2 has a trad anchor (many gear options are possible there).
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