Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Lumsford/Schmausser
Page Views: 3,695 total · 21/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Oct 23, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details
Access Issue: Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details

Description

This climb is located on the Civil Wall, immediately to the right of Tanner Dome.

Just right of the chimney which marks the start of several climbs on Civil Wall, this excellent mixed route climbs the most obvious weakness on a steep pink-granite face.

The first part climbs a trickier-than-it-looks face past bolts to an exciting stand-up move over a bulge. Those with more patience than I may be able to better protect with RPs in a seam here. Clip another bolt, then traverse left to the crack. Jam the steep crack up to a ledge, then wander up featured rock to the anchor. The crack is strenuous and very crystalline, so you may want to consider taping.

Protection

QDs and standard rack to 2 inches.

Photos

Thanks Joe for the comments on 30,000. This is a very fun route with a short crack section needing traditional gear. One #3, #2, #1, #0.75, and a #0.5 Camalot should get any climber through this section. I'm constantly seeing biners left on the last bolt.

There are many mixed routes at Tanner Dome and other locations in the Wet Mountains. If you are not absolutely sure about gear on any given route, take a set of Camalots and a set on nuts and you will be rewarded with excellent safe climbing. Nov 12, 2007
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10b
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10b
Another beauty, Nelson! For me, the crux was the funky bulge below the last bolt. The crack takes great gear and has decent hand jams. Be careful of some loose rocks in the crack by the anchor. An area classic for sure. Mar 21, 2012