Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tanner Dome

.54 Chunk 'o Lead T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
30,000 Casualties T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Abracadabra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amp Left S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Amp Right S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bull Run S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bullwinkle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chickamauga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chris Barlow Mixed Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clippers and Saws T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flee S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ghost Rider T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Gimp Verde T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hanging Judge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harper's Ferry T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kennesaw Mountain S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Landscape Architect S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Leftist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
March To The Sea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Merrimac, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Midlife Crisis T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nathan Forrest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pendejo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rebel Yell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rightist S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tanner Classic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Two Fine People S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vicksburg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Lumsford/Schmausser
Page Views: 3,372 total, 21/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Oct 23, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal falcon nesting closures Details
Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details

Description

This climb is located on the Civil Wall, immediately to the right of Tanner Dome.

Just right of the chimney which marks the start of several climbs on Civil Wall, this excellent mixed route climbs the most obvious weakness on a steep pink-granite face.

The first part climbs a trickier-than-it-looks face past bolts to an exciting stand-up move over a bulge. Those with more patience than I may be able to better protect with RPs in a seam here. Clip another bolt, then traverse left to the crack. Jam the steep crack up to a ledge, then wander up featured rock to the anchor. The crack is strenuous and very crystalline, so you may want to consider taping.

Protection

QDs and standard rack to 2 inches.

Photos

Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10b
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10b
Another beauty, Nelson! For me, the crux was the funky bulge below the last bolt. The crack takes great gear and has decent hand jams. Be careful of some loose rocks in the crack by the anchor. An area classic for sure. Mar 21, 2012
Thanks Joe for the comments on 30,000. This is a very fun route with a short crack section needing traditional gear. One #3, #2, #1, #0.75, and a #0.5 Camalot should get any climber through this section. I'm constantly seeing biners left on the last bolt.

There are many mixed routes at Tanner Dome and other locations in the Wet Mountains. If you are not absolutely sure about gear on any given route, take a set of Camalots and a set on nuts and you will be rewarded with excellent safe climbing. Nov 12, 2007