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Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Jeff Thomson, 2000
Page Views: 189 total, 7/month
Shared By: Mr. Stevens on Jul 5, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

This is a great, well protected pitch of slab climbing and thin edging. Start with some typical Squamish root pulling and get to the base of the slab with some stumps. The climbing is easy for the first third, but it gets pretty sustained and desperate for the middle part. There were three bolts in a row with fixed quicklinks! A bit of pure friction, but more just really thin edging. The climbing eases once you can start slapping the arete with your right hand. Put on some stiff shoes and have at it!

Location

Get yourself to the base of Slot Machine. Walk left along a well defined path (don't go up and right!) for about 50 yards. You'll encounter a fixed rope along the way. The climb starts on the obvious slab just right of Cream of White Mice & Two Rats and a Titmouse.

Protection

14 draws + 2 for the anchor. A 70 m rope is MANDATORY and will only get you down to the stumps at the start of the climb. Have your belayer walk up the gully as they lower or just rap and clean. Tie knots!

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