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Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Thomson, Kevin McLane: 2000
Page Views: 237 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 23, 2012
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Traverse across the slab and tentatively climb towards the roof above. Use the broken roof's features to work your way up left and surmount the slab above, using a 2" cam to protect this move. Clip more bolts on your way to the chains at the top of the slab.

Location

In the Manana area, route furthest right. Around the arete above Golden Labs.

Protection

7 bolts, a 2" cam

Photos

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oretro
  5.8+
oretro  
  5.8+
We had a 60m rope and we had no issues with rappelling. We landed just where we started (just below and slightly right of the first bolt).
Bolts did NOT feel too close together - this was slab that seemed more difficult than typical multi-pitch lines in Darrington. Aug 29, 2017
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.8 R
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.8 R
I agree with Slim, one runout above the only place to bust your ankles. I'd assume it was bolted on lead by the nature of the bolting.

Also, tie a knot in your rope before lowering. It's a long pitch, you might need to lower off into the gully on the right if you don't have a 70m. Jul 23, 2015
slim

  5.8
slim    
  5.8
the only noteworthy thing, on this otherwise bland pitch, is that it is really poorly bolted for a modern route. expect bolts really close together on easy trivial climbing, and a poorly protected crux section with really ugly fall potential. Aug 5, 2013
rsmb
  5.8
rsmb  
  5.8
An underrated pitch, in my opinion. This is the bolt line visible from the top of Slot Machine. If you do that climb, hop on this. Jun 4, 2013