All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Bulletheads > Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice

Name: A Cream of White Mice
Rating: 2.3

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Bulletheads South

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Arnold Grumplewimp T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Coogee Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dances with Bolts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fiesta Daze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Manana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rainy Day Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Shannon's Dancing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stairway to Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Triptoe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	49.67672, -123.15268
FA:	Peter Croft, Tami Knight 1978
Page Views:	5,765 total · 24/month
Shared By:	ScottH on Sep 7, 2006
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

A Cream of White Mice is a memorable Peter Croft route; one that has made me forever leery of his climbs. Sometimes a single section of a climb defines a route, and sometimes a single word defines that section. For this climb, that word is smooth. Or traverse. Or unprotectable. Take your pick.

P1. Begin from a cedar groove that leads to a suprisingly airy, bolted arete. Climb the arete to a stance at the base of a dike. Some gear is needed near the top of the arete. Stiff 5.8.

P2. Follow the dike up and left on easy terrain. Occasionally sparse but adequate gear. Belay at bolts on the left of the arete. 5.4

P3. Climb slightly up from the belay, then traverse right across the smooth wall to a belay in the corner. Suffice to say this is heady and not short. The crux comes early in the traverse. 5.9

P4. Continue up the corner to the forest. Initially awkward, and a non-trivial exit. 5.9

It is possible to combine P3&P4 with a 60m rope. A brave soul will climb well into the corner after the traverse before placing a piece for the sake of her second; a coward (me) will throw gear in at the first opportunity.

Location

To descend, walk-off, passing Xenolith Dance en route to Bullethead Ledge. With a 70m rope a bold rappel can be done if no one else is on-route.

Protection

Gear to 2". There is a placement available in the dyke above and left of the start of the traverse (~.5 camalot) which protects the hardest section for the leader. Protection for the second is a cool head.