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Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight 1978
Page Views: 2,502 total, 18/month
Shared By: ScottH on Sep 7, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

A Cream of White Mice is a memorable Peter Croft route; one that has made me forever leery of his climbs. Sometimes a single section of a climb defines a route, and sometimes a single word defines that section. For this climb, that word is smooth. Or traverse. Or unprotectable. Take your pick.

P1. Begin from a cedar groove that leads to a suprisingly airy, bolted arete. Climb the arete to a stance at the base of a dike. Some gear is needed near the top of the arete. Stiff 5.8.

P2. Follow the dike up and left on easy terrain. Occasionally sparse but adequate gear. Belay at bolts on the left of the arete. 5.4

P3. Climb slightly up from the belay, then traverse right across the smooth wall to a belay in the corner. Suffice to say this is heady and not short. The crux comes early in the traverse. 5.9

P4. Continue up the corner to the forest. Initially awkward, and a non-trivial exit. 5.9

It is possible to combine P3&P4 with a 60m rope. A brave soul will climb well into the corner after the traverse before placing a piece for the sake of her second; a coward (me) will throw gear in at the first opportunity.

Location

To descend, walk-off, passing Xenolith Dance en route to Bullethead Ledge.

Protection

Gear to 2". There is a placement available in the dyke above and left of the start of the traverse (~.5 camalot) which protects the hardest section for the leader. Protection for the second is a cool head.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
I don't think anyone mentions it here, but that 1st pitch variation that is all bolted on the arete to the left is 10c called 2 Rats and a Titmouse, and has 2 spots with widely spaced bolts that also happen to be the thin crux moves. I happen to like the crack all the way to the belay- it is very nice IMO. Jul 17, 2014
Adrian Lazar  
 
A fun route that has a bit of everything. The first pitch has been rebolted (5 bolts) so that you can start climbing the arete right off the deck. p3 traverse can be a bit airy, but you could climb a little higher before the traverse and place a cam to help minimize the swing.

p1: bolt anchor
p2-3: gear anchors
p4: tree anchor

We descended the first two pitches rapping on trees and then took the trail down. Jul 28, 2011
A direct start now exists that adds 5 bolts extending to the toe of the arete for some additional slab climbing with an easy 5.10 crux at the 5th bolt. From the first belay we followed the dike/crack up and left to the higher bolted anchor. The dike straight up had a couple of bolts at the end so we forged on straight up for pitch 3. Runout 5.8 clmbing on the slick dike got us to a 4 or 5-bolt slab with a hard 5.10 crux past the last bolt. Not sure of the ID/grade of the last pitch, but it was fun! Made 4 raps to the ground with a 70m rope. Not sure a single 60m would reach for the first rap from the top. Jul 8, 2009
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
 
There is a belay station a little low and off to the right of the old belay station at the end of the second pitch. If you use this belay station there are 3-4 bolts direct up the slab that takes you into the traverse. (Maybe 10a slab) The last bolt sorta protects the crux of the traverse so you don't have to stuff any gear in the high crack (still super run out though). This also serves as a direct line up to the 11a bolted direct finish. May 31, 2009