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Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Thomson et al 2000
Page Views: 1,311 total · 11/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Dec 30, 2007
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Face climbing in two pitches, the first with 9 bolts on delicate moves, and the second through 7 bolts to the top of the face. A very nice climb, it makes a nice continuation off of slot machine as it is just a short walk from the top of that climb. The start is the 3rd bolt line from the right. It shares a start with Shannon's Dancing (11A)

Location

Above Bullethead Ledge, there is a climber's trail that meanders up from the ledge, past the top of Coogee Crack. Better to climb Slot Machine and walk left to the base of the climb.

Protection

Quickdraws

Photos

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Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
A bit of a runout after the last bolt, but on easy ground. If you're queasy you could punch in some gear in the end of Manana - maybe a .4 Camalot? That's just eyeballing though. Jul 23, 2015
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
 
I just did the first pitch to chain anchors, fantastic climbing. Jun 13, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Very sustained and thought provoking for the grade. Jul 31, 2009
Sustained and thought provoking, demands good technique and a cool head. Aug 4, 2008