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Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Robin Barley
Page Views: 175 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Sep 16, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Despite the silly name, this is an excellent 3 pitch slab climb that gets progressively harder and steeper with each pitch.
p1 (10b/c): Start just left of Cream of White Mice and follow 10 bolts up the arete in a nice position to a bolted anchor. (30m)
p2 (10c/d): Follow bolts up the low angle slab, staying slightly right of the arete (32m)
p3 (11a): Slab climb past 4 bolts, then run it out over easy terrain (crossing the Cream traverse) to more bolts. The angle steepens and the climbing becomes an intricate mix of stemming and pulling on steep dyke holds (38m)

Location

The route starts just left of Alegria and Cream of White Mice.

Protection

12 or 13 draws is all you need. There is a runout on very easy terrain where the route intersects with Cream of White Mice but you'd need to pass out to fall in this section.

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