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> Bulletheads South
Two Rats and a Titmouse
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Bulletheads South
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A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Arnold Grumplewimp T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Coogee Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dances with Bolts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fiesta Daze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Manana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rainy Day Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shannon's Dancing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stairway to Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Triptoe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 49.67672, -123.15268 |
| FA: | Robin Barley |
| Page Views: | 1,827 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Bonnell on Sep 16, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Despite the silly name, this is an excellent 3 pitch slab climb that gets progressively harder and steeper with each pitch.
p1 (10b/c): Start just left of Cream of White Mice and follow 10 bolts up the arete in a nice position to a bolted anchor. (30m)
p2 (10c/d): Follow bolts up the low angle slab, staying slightly right of the arete (32m)
p3 (11a): Slab climb past 4 bolts, then run it out over easy terrain (crossing the Cream traverse) to more bolts. The angle steepens and the climbing becomes an intricate mix of stemming and pulling on steep dyke holds (38m)
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