Type: Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Robin Barley
Page Views: 291 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Sep 16, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Despite the silly name, this is an excellent 3 pitch slab climb that gets progressively harder and steeper with each pitch.
p1 (10b/c): Start just left of Cream of White Mice and follow 10 bolts up the arete in a nice position to a bolted anchor. (30m)
p2 (10c/d): Follow bolts up the low angle slab, staying slightly right of the arete (32m)
p3 (11a): Slab climb past 4 bolts, then run it out over easy terrain (crossing the Cream traverse) to more bolts. The angle steepens and the climbing becomes an intricate mix of stemming and pulling on steep dyke holds (38m)

Location

The route starts just left of Alegria and Cream of White Mice.

Protection

12 or 13 draws is all you need. There is a runout on very easy terrain where the route intersects with Cream of White Mice but you'd need to pass out to fall in this section.

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