Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Howe, Rolf Rybak, Sept. 1982
Page Views: 2,214 total · 15/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

The obvious finger crack on the wall left of several sport climbs including Xenolith Dance. The beginning has a distinct lightning-bolt look and the crux comes in the thin locks and small gear of the first 20'.

The climb follows thin flakes and the obvious clean crack for 40m as the angle slowly kicks back. The last few moves are up a slab to the chains.

Rated .10c in the Select guide, both myself and partner found it a touch easier, but still very fun. There is an intermediate rappel station (the anchors for xenolith dance) to allow getting off the climb with one rope.

Location

On the left side of the Manana Wall to the left of several sport climbs including "Xenolith Dance". This wall is reached by hiking up above Coogee Crack from Bullethead Ledge, or by walking left from the top of Slot Machine.

Protection

Double set of cams to 1" and a set of nuts.

Photos