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Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,392 total · 12/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Description

The obvious finger crack on the wall left of several sport climbs including Xenolith Dance. The beginning has a distinct lightning-bolt look and the crux comes in the thin locks and small gear of the first 20'.

The climb follows thin flakes and the obvious clean crack for 40m as the angle slowly kicks back. The last few moves are up a slab to the chains.

Rated .10c in the Select guide, both myself and partner found it a touch easier, but still very fun. There is an intermediate rappel station (the anchors for xenolith dance) to allow getting off the climb with one rope.

Location

On the left side of the Manana Wall to the left of several sport climbs including "Xenolith Dance". This wall is reached by hiking up above Coogee Crack from Bullethead Ledge, or by walking left from the top of Slot Machine.

Protection

Double set of cams to 1" and a set of nuts.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
FA: John Howe, Rolf Rybak, Sept. 1982 Feb 12, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
So fun! Techy, sustained and thoughtful for an honest 30m or so, then as the angle kicks back it's a fun romp with jugs and locks for another 25m. The business section climbs like the EPB variation of Skywalker, but harder. I recommend singles from grey Metolius to #3 Camalot, doubles from 0.4 to. 75, and some RPs to supplement your regular nuts. Also thought the route length is underestimated here, closer to 55m I reckon. Aug 10, 2013

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