Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Howe, Rolf Rybak, Sept. 1982
Page Views: 1,648 total · 13/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

The obvious finger crack on the wall left of several sport climbs including Xenolith Dance. The beginning has a distinct lightning-bolt look and the crux comes in the thin locks and small gear of the first 20'.

The climb follows thin flakes and the obvious clean crack for 40m as the angle slowly kicks back. The last few moves are up a slab to the chains.

Rated .10c in the Select guide, both myself and partner found it a touch easier, but still very fun. There is an intermediate rappel station (the anchors for xenolith dance) to allow getting off the climb with one rope.

Location

On the left side of the Manana Wall to the left of several sport climbs including "Xenolith Dance". This wall is reached by hiking up above Coogee Crack from Bullethead Ledge, or by walking left from the top of Slot Machine.

Protection

Double set of cams to 1" and a set of nuts.

Photos

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
So fun! Techy, sustained and thoughtful for an honest 30m or so, then as the angle kicks back it's a fun romp with jugs and locks for another 25m. The business section climbs like the EPB variation of Skywalker, but harder. I recommend singles from grey Metolius to #3 Camalot, doubles from 0.4 to. 75, and some RPs to supplement your regular nuts. Also thought the route length is underestimated here, closer to 55m I reckon. Aug 10, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
FA: John Howe, Rolf Rybak, Sept. 1982 Feb 12, 2015
Noelle Patterson
  5.10b
Noelle Patterson  
  5.10b
Fun, long route that rewards with great views! The placements and finger crack feel a bit insecure and flaring at the beginning of the route, although they improve as you get higher. I agree with the gear beta from Mark except I remember using two #2 Camalots. There is currently a nest of angry wasps about 2/3 of the way up the route, right in a nice hand placement. Be careful! Aug 30, 2018