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Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location. Know it? Let us know.

Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

Most of these climbs are scattered but many good combinations can be climbed from the Campground Wall on up. The most famous of them being "Slot Machine".

Getting There

This is cliff located immediately after topping out on the fixed line on the approach trail.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bulletheads South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 176
Slot Machine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
A Cream of White Mice
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 32
Golden Labs
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Women In Comfortable Shoes
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Manana
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 34
Coogee Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 34
Xenolith Dance
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
The Black Book
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Alegria
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slot Machine
 176
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
A Cream of White Mice
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Golden Labs
 32
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Women In Comfortable Shoes
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Manana
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Coogee Crack
 34
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Xenolith Dance
 34
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Black Book
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Alegria
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bulletheads South »

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Photos

Ryan Canfield
North Bend, WA
Ryan Canfield   North Bend, WA
Wow, what a royal pain in the ass to find!! The book does a horrible job describing the access to this route. Couldn't find a fixed line or anything. Ended up walking too far right and intersected the stairs to the top of the Chief. I'll try again on the next trip... Sep 21, 2016

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