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Bulletheads South Rock Climbing

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Routes in Bulletheads South

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Arnold Grumplewimp T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Coogee Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dances with Bolts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fiesta Daze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Manana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rainy Day Woman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Shannon's Dancing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stairway to Heaven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Triptoe T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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GPS:	49.67672, -123.15268 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006 · Updates
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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Most of these climbs are scattered but many good combinations can be climbed from the Campground Wall on up. The most famous of them being "Slot Machine".

Getting There

This is cliff located immediately after topping out on the fixed line on the approach trail.

20 Total Climbs

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Location:	Bulletheads South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Bulletheads South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 51 ● Dora's Delight Trad, Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 483 ● Slot Machine Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 49 ● A Cream of White Mice Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 104 ● Golden Labs Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 28 ● Women In Comfortable Shoes Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 77 ● Manana Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 69 ● Coogee Crack Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Nuclear Arms Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 73 ● Xenolith Dance Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 39 ● Stairway to Heaven Sport 16 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 5 ● Chasse Right Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 20 ● The Black Book Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 6 ● Two Rats and a Titmouse Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 4 ● Alegria Sport