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Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Milward, Jim Campbell April 1983
Page Views: 5,917 total, 43/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


168 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the best 5.9's in the area and sees heavy traffic. From the stiff start in the beginning to the endless hand jams this climb is a must do.

The crux is located immediately off the ground but good gear is at your waist. The climbing eases off quite a bit after that. Climb the obvious crack from the middle ledge.

Protection

Single set of cams
Joshua Thompson
Seattle, Washington
 
Joshua Thompson   Seattle, Washington
 
Fun little climb. Interesting start (crux?) Everything else was straight forward. A solid 5.8 in my opinion. We did this at sunset so we had the wall to ourselves.

My guide book didn't mention anything about a walk off and assumed we were to rap. Top of the first pitch, I stopped at the first set of chains and belayed my partner up. Not the most comfortable belay station for two people but it worked. I assumed this was put in, in place of the tree belay..? When we finished the second pitch, I rapped off the rap rings down to the first set of chains we stopped at and my 60m rope was a few feet too short! I'm sure I'm not the only one who has ran into this issue. I don't know who put in the rap rings but they should note that you need a 70m if you're going to use the top set. Jun 26, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Nice shot of the P2 arete, Clint. Looks like exposed fun. Jul 12, 2015
Andy Shoemaker
  5.10-
Andy Shoemaker  
  5.10-
two notes. first, save some 1-2" pieces for the upper half of the first pitch. second, the walk off is climbers left once you get to the top. its not super clear, but its all there. Jun 27, 2015
rl23455
Portland, OR
rl23455   Portland, OR
Tough off the ground start. The new book says 5.8, not in my opinion, 5.9 start. The hollow sounding flake/rock farther up sounds to me like it could fall at any time. It's just laying there in the notch. Jul 26, 2014
Clint Landrock  
  5.9
Great climb. Both pitches are superb, even if the 2nd pitch is quite a bit easier it's still fun. Definitely use the walk-off (<5 mins), no reason to rap. There is a two-bolt anchor near the top of pitch 1, which could be used instead of the tree. I wasn't sure if these anchors were for Slot Machine or the link-up for Stairway, so I choose to continue to the small tree belay. The tree in my opinion is borderline good, but can be backed up with a couple of pieces and long slings in the crack for the start of pitch 2. Comparing with some 5.9s in the smoke bluffs, pitch 1 fits the grade, however there are two cracks to choose from and lots of possible combos for the climbing so I can see some feeling it's 5.8. Don't underestimate the climbing on pitch 1 after the first couple moves, it doesn't get a whole lot easier, although there are quite a few rests. I didn't take any doubles with me, and wished I had a couple more in the 1 inch range, you can leave the small stuff at home for this one. Pitch 2 is solid 5.6 crack climbing (5.7 if you go from the bolt belay below the tree), and finishes on an exposed unprotected arete - very cool position! You can bail out left of the arete to make it easier / more secure, but I highly recommend taking the high road (see photo).
javascript:void(0); Jun 23, 2014
Ed kelly
  5.8
Ed kelly  
  5.8
Very fun first pitch, really loved it. To me it was the platonic ideal of a 5.8, although I understand people arguing that the first 10 feet are harder. The second pitch is a bit of a joke. keep going straight up and across the almost flat slab/arette to a bolt anchor and you'lle really enjoy the exposed position, rather than going left to a big tree with lots of slings. Definitely walk off. It's straight forward and the lower half of the crack seems like it would eat ropes. Aug 6, 2013
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
new book gives it 5.8, which is a bit stiff (the start) by squamish standards. fun route. Aug 5, 2013
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
5.8
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
5.8
Without a doubt, 5.8, not 5.9. First pitch was quite clean and fun though.

The second pitch, however, is a joke, as far as difficulty is concerned. I just ran the whole rope out to the top without placing pro and hip belayed up my partner. I'm NOT a hardman by any means.

That said, from looking at the book we thought the "standard" means of descent was to rap both pitches, not walk off. So rap is what we did.

If the walk off is in fact straight forward as others say, then quickly do the second pitch and walk off. If you're thinking of rapping, or are just the kind of climber that tries to squeeze in as many good pitches in a day as you can...do the first pitch and just rap off. Aug 6, 2012
Crotch Robbins  
  5.9
A single 5.9 move at the start, then 5.7 or easier the rest of the way. Sep 15, 2011
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Only the first move is hard, the rest is a lark. Good route to take beginners who want a bit of the mountain experience without committing to hauling them up the apron.

There's anchor bolts at the top of the second pitch if you keep going up the wide crack past the tree anchor...that got me confused to be honest.

We were deliberating whether to rap down or not, but the walk-off was really quite straight forward and probably faster too. Oct 13, 2009
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
 
There is a two bolt anchor at the top of the second. Keep the line going straight up the crack and top out on the slabby arete. Jun 16, 2009
JSH

JSH    
There's also several ways of getting your ropes stuck, between the angle of the buttress, the mid-route tree, and the crack itself. I would have preferred to walk off!

I thought the starting moves only had a little bit of 5.10 in them (especially after I plugged up the best hold with gear ;-0), and I found them a bit reachy. Sep 2, 2007
Dpurf
Superior
  5.9
Dpurf   Superior
  5.9
The Guide book does not show it, but someone has added a rap rings to the Tree at the top of the 2nd and also to the tree a top the 1st.

**** Please use the walk off *****

If you rap you will be pissing off the line people coming up. The walk off is nice and easy. From the top of the climb move back and left and you can't miss the trail. It will take you right back to the base of the climb. Jul 17, 2007