Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Peter Croft, John Howe, Blake Robinson, Sept. 1980
Page Views: 1,287 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mike Teschke on Jun 16, 2009 with improvements by Kate Lynn
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A left trending flake. Starts off with a slightly overhanging lay back hand crack up onto the ramp like flake that moves up left, the flake narrows to the point where you can't easily stand on it about the same time the jams move from nice hand jams to rattly fingers. The last half of the climb was quite burly and felt harder than 5.9 for me.

Location

Just about half way between the top of Slot Machine and Xenolith Dance. It is a somewhat obvious flake just on the right side of bottom of the upper descent gully that has the fixed lines.

Protection

Good selection of hand to finger sized gear. Chained rap anchor. 60m rope works nicely.

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Worthy pitch. Starts as #3 camalots and ends as purple/green camalots. Jul 31, 2009
slim

  5.9+
slim    
  5.9+
very worthwhile little pitch. good blue collar jamming at the start, followed by some elegant footwork with a nice diagonal crack. leader should probably belay from the top anchor, as lowering could jam the first cams into the roof. Aug 5, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
FA: Peter Croft, John Howe, Blake Robinson, Sept. 1980 Feb 12, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Awesome route, immaculate stone with excellent friction - crystals the size of your knuckles. The crux is not where it appears, the roof was solid hand jams throughout (but I've got big hands - the business is tight #3s). Surprisingly pumpy climbing to the chains. First class.

Good gear recommendation from Andy. I'd say doubles from .5-#3 Camalot, but you could place a .4 at the end. Also takes large nuts well. Extending your gear at the beginning can eliminate the risk of the rope pulling your roof cams into the crack, so lower if you want. Jul 23, 2015