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Routes in Bulletheads South

A Cream of White Mice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alegria S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Book, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasse Right S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coogee Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dora's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Labs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Manana T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuclear Arms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Rats and a Titmouse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Women In Comfortable Shoes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xenolith Dance S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Peter Croft, John Howe, Blake Robinson, Sept. 1980
Page Views: 887 total · 8/month
Shared By: Mike Teschke on Jun 16, 2009 with updates
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

A left trending flake. Starts off with a slightly overhanging lay back hand crack up onto the ramp like flake that moves up left, the flake narrows to the point where you can't easily stand on it about the same time the jams move from nice hand jams to rattly fingers. The last half of the climb was quite burly and felt harder than 5.9 for me.

Location

Just about half way between the top of Slot Machine and Xenolith Dance. It is a somewhat obvious flake just on the right side of bottom of the upper descent gully that has the fixed lines.

Protection

Good selection of hand to finger sized gear. Chained rap anchor. 60m rope works nicely.

Photos

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Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Awesome route, immaculate stone with excellent friction - crystals the size of your knuckles. The crux is not where it appears, the roof was solid hand jams throughout (but I've got big hands - the business is tight #3s). Surprisingly pumpy climbing to the chains. First class.

Good gear recommendation from Andy. I'd say doubles from .5-#3 Camalot, but you could place a .4 at the end. Also takes large nuts well. Extending your gear at the beginning can eliminate the risk of the rope pulling your roof cams into the crack, so lower if you want. Jul 23, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9+
FA: Peter Croft, John Howe, Blake Robinson, Sept. 1980 Feb 12, 2015
slim

  5.9+
slim    
  5.9+
very worthwhile little pitch. good blue collar jamming at the start, followed by some elegant footwork with a nice diagonal crack. leader should probably belay from the top anchor, as lowering could jam the first cams into the roof. Aug 5, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Worthy pitch. Starts as #3 camalots and ends as purple/green camalots. Jul 31, 2009