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Alegria

5.11b, Sport, 125 ft (38 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: Jeff Thomson, 2000
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Bulletheads > Bulletheads South
Warning Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a great, well protected pitch of slab climbing and thin edging. Start with some typical Squamish root pulling and get to the base of the slab with some stumps. The climbing is easy for the first third, but it gets pretty sustained and desperate for the middle part. There were three bolts in a row with fixed quicklinks! A bit of pure friction, but more just really thin edging. The climbing eases once you can start slapping the arete with your right hand. Put on some stiff shoes and have at it!

Location

Get yourself to the base of Slot Machine. Walk left along a well defined path (don't go up and right!) for about 50 yards. You'll encounter a fixed rope along the way. The climb starts on the obvious slab just right of Cream of White Mice & Two Rats and a Titmouse.

Protection

14 draws + 2 for the anchor. A 70 m rope is MANDATORY and will only get you down to the stumps at the start of the climb. Have your belayer walk up the gully as they lower or just rap and clean. Tie knots!

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The climb follows the obvious slab above the stumps
[Hide Photo] The climb follows the obvious slab above the stumps