Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Rusty Blade
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 33
votes
Routes in Main Wall
|
|
A Faint Horizon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Assassin, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Black Solitaire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Black Solitaire Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Broad Axe S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Man on the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Marble House S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Rusty Blade S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Thunderbird Arête S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick 2015 |
| Page Views: | 2,459 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jan 17, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Rusty Blade is a very cool variation to The Scythe which cuts the grade down to 5.10, and features great granitesque climbing on more or less bomber sticky rock.
Begin as for The Scythe. After the sixth bolt look for a bolt out left as you enter the small right facing dihedral. A couple lay backs will lead to another bolt out left on a black section of a blunt arête. Start moving left around the arête past varnished crimps, a small heavily textured rail feature, and an amazing black knob that will see you to a good rest stance above.
From the stance a nice hand jam pod shows up just in time. Some clever footwork will see you through a wide "runnel", and onto the huge blade feature on climbers right. A beautiful rusty colored water streak awaits which is loaded with cool pockets. Scamper to the anchor and enjoy the view.
Running the rope left to right at the anchors, and lowering over the large blade feature will help mitigate rope drag. However, there is going to be drag when lowering no matter what.
2 Comments