Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick 2015
Page Views: 2,405 total · 21/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jan 17, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Rusty Blade is a very cool variation to The Scythe which cuts the grade down to 5.10, and features great granitesque climbing on more or less bomber sticky rock.

Begin as for The Scythe. After the sixth bolt look for a bolt out left as you enter the small right facing dihedral. A couple lay backs will lead to another bolt out left on a black section of a blunt arête. Start moving left around the arête past varnished crimps, a small heavily textured rail feature, and an amazing black knob that will see you to a good rest stance above.

From the stance a nice hand jam pod shows up just in time. Some clever footwork will see you through a wide "runnel", and onto the huge blade feature on climbers right. A beautiful rusty colored water streak awaits which is loaded with cool pockets. Scamper to the anchor and enjoy the view.

Running the rope left to right at the anchors, and lowering over the large blade feature will help mitigate rope drag. However, there is going to be drag when lowering no matter what.

Location Suggest change

Starts on The Scythe.

Protection Suggest change

11 lead bolts
2 bolt anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.