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> Higher Solitude
> Main Wall
Rusty Blade
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 20
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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A Faint Horizon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Assassin, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Solitaire Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Black Solitaire, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Broad Axe S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lucky Old Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Man on the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Marble House S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thunderbird Arête S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft |
| FA: | Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,142 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jan 17, 2015 |
| Admins: | Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Rusty Blade is a very cool variation to The Scythe which cuts the grade down to 5.10- or so, and features great granitesque climbing, on more or less bomber sticky rock.
Begin as for The Scythe. After the sixth bolt look for a bolt out left as you enter the small right facing dihedral. A couple lay backs will lead to another bolt out left on a black section of a blunt arête. Start moving left around the arête past varnished crimps, a small heavily textured rail feature, and an amazing black knob that will see you to a good rest stance above.
From the stance a nice hand jam pod shows up just in time. Some clever footwork will see you through a wide "runnel", and onto the huge blade feature on climbers right. A beautiful rusty colored water streak awaits which is loaded with cool pockets. Scamper to the anchor and enjoy the view.
Running the rope left to right at the anchors, and lowering over the large blade feature will help mitigate rope drag. However, there is going to be drag when lowering no matter what.
Begin as for The Scythe. After the sixth bolt look for a bolt out left as you enter the small right facing dihedral. A couple lay backs will lead to another bolt out left on a black section of a blunt arête. Start moving left around the arête past varnished crimps, a small heavily textured rail feature, and an amazing black knob that will see you to a good rest stance above.
From the stance a nice hand jam pod shows up just in time. Some clever footwork will see you through a wide "runnel", and onto the huge blade feature on climbers right. A beautiful rusty colored water streak awaits which is loaded with cool pockets. Scamper to the anchor and enjoy the view.
Running the rope left to right at the anchors, and lowering over the large blade feature will help mitigate rope drag. However, there is going to be drag when lowering no matter what.
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