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Elevation: 8,153 ft
GPS: 35.24103, -111.61823
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,973 total · 358/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

The Main Wall is a beautiful swath of quasi psycadelic stone with bright lichen and stunning black, white, bronze, and gray water streaks. This is the tallest wall in the canyon and the lines here are long, aesthetic, and exposed. Some of the best single pitch air on Elden guaranteed.

There is a fine collection of 5.10’s, though a couple of them are linkups or variations. If you are coming up for the .10’s there are four fairly distinct lines you can do on the Main Wall and six if you do the linkups. Plus the two .10’s on the Sailing Wall and one on the Whisper Wall. There are a few thoughtful 5.11’s and a good grouping of 5.12’s. With the addition of the routes Black Solitaire 5.13-, The Hermit 5.13, and Lost Solitude 5.13+, this place is turning into a great local, cold weather training crag and an awesome place to find a project if you’re looking to increase your fitness. 

Conditions can turn on a dime edge up here. However, if the sun is shining and the air is cool, this crag is a good opportunity to get above it all without having to leave town. During the winter months the sun hits the wall at 9:30 in the morning. The best days for hard climbing up here are 45- 50 degrees and sunny. This wall is big enough to create a micro climate, so windy weather is sometimes buffeted at the base. In windy conditions, it’s good to know this is a stable wall. Very little debris will fall from above. An occasional pebble perhaps. However, during the colder months, ice fall is a concern. This western side of the canyon has a healthy population of Gamble Oaks, which during the autumn color change, dapple the landscape with swaths of glowing orange.

Though the crag is set up to accommodate a 60 meter rope, you have to be really aware when lowering. 70 meter rope is highly recommended, and makes the day more enjoyable. Watch those rope ends when lowering as these are long pitches. Also, it's nice to have three or four full length runners and a handful of long draws to manage your rope flow. It’s not a crag for short draws, and you’ll want some play in your sway. To preserve your rope, in general, you’ll want to clean these routes on top rope, or be aware of what’s going to be involved, if you decide to clean them while lowering. 

Climbing the multi pitch version of Man on the Moon 5.10- allows one to access the anchors of all the harder routes for hanging draws, cleaning holds, or retrieving gear. Though it takes some finagling.

Main Wall Overview Topo
The Main Wall

Getting There Suggest change

Follow directions on the main page.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 115
Man on the Moon
Sport 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Thunderbird Arête
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
Rusty Blade
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Thunder Moon
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Lucky Old Sun
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 40
Broad Axe
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 34
Whiplash
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 18
Slipstream
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 71
Solitaire
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
A Faint Horizon
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 13
Holy Roller
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 12
Continental Drift
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 23
Black Solitaire
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
The Hermit
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Lost Solitude
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Man on the Moon
 115
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Thunderbird Arête
 48
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rusty Blade
 32
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Thunder Moon
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lucky Old Sun
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Broad Axe
 40
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Whiplash
 34
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Slipstream
 18
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Solitaire
 71
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
A Faint Horizon
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Holy Roller
 13
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Continental Drift
 12
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Black Solitaire
 23
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Hermit
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Lost Solitude
 4
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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