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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Assassin, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man on the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird Arête S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Elevation: 8,600 ft
GPS: 35.241, -111.618 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,503 total · 218/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed for Forest Thinning Details

Description

The Main Wall is a beautiful swath of stone which is heavily accented with bright lichen and stunning black, white, bronze, and gray water streaks. This is the tallest wall in the canyon and the lines here are long, aesthetic, and exposed. Some of the best single pitch air on Elden guaranteed.

There is a fine collection of 5.10’s, though a couple of them are linkups or variations. If you are coming up for the .10’s there are four distinct lines to do on the Main Wall, plus the two .10’s on the Sailing Wall. There are a few thoughtful 5.11’s and an excellent grouping of 5.12’s. With the addition of the routes Black Solitaire 5.13-, The Hermit 5.13, and Lost Solitude 5.13+ this place is turning into a great local cold weather training crag and an awesome place to find a project.

A 70 meter rope is highly recommended. Watch those rope ends when lowering!!! These are long pitches. Also, it's nice to have three or four full length runners and a handful of long draws to manage your rope flow. Not a crag for short draws. You will want some play in your sway.

Climbing the multi pitch version of Man on the Moon 5.10- allows one to access the anchors of all the harder routes for hanging draws, cleaning holds, or retrieving gear. Though it takes some finagling.

Conditions can turn on a dime edge up here. However, if the sun is shining and the air is cool, this crag is a good opportunity to get above it all without having to leave town. During the winter months the sun hits the wall at 9:30 in the morning. The best climbing days up here are 45 degrees and sunny. This wall is big enough to create a micro climate so windy weather is sometimes buffeted.

Main Wall Overview Topo
The Main Wall

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21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
Rusty Blade
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
Man on the Moon
Sport 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Thunderbird Arête
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Thunder Moon
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Lucky Old Sun
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Broad Axe
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 20
Whiplash
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
Solitaire
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
The Assassin
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
A Faint Horizon
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 11
Holy Roller
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 11
Continental Drift
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
The Black Solitaire
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
The Hermit
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Lost Solitude
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rusty Blade
 19
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Man on the Moon
 70
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Thunderbird Arête
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Thunder Moon
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Lucky Old Sun
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Broad Axe
 22
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Whiplash
 20
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Solitaire
 36
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Assassin
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
A Faint Horizon
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Holy Roller
 11
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Continental Drift
 11
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
The Black Solitaire
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Hermit
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Lost Solitude
 3
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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Thank you to all the route developers. This is an absolute gem to have in the backyard. Dec 20, 2017

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