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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin , The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Black Solitare Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man On the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird ArĂȘte S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Page Views: 1,306 total, 14/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Holy Roller offers some awesome positioning, bouldery crux moves, and demands an attention to detail when it comes to your feet. It's also a good training route for other power endurance projects.

Second route right of Solitaire. The first section delivers some technical climbing in between bigger holds and checks in around 5.9 or so.

The second section is steep, solid, and bouldery! From the break, move up and right over the bulge passing good hand holds, and a dearth of footholds. Move up to a very standout solution pocket up and left of streak. From there move slightly right again into the streak, crimps, and a full body toss to a giant chicken head! The crux moves are really good! Finish up with some big steep moves, and then pass a giant hueco, that if need be you could sit in, take a rest, and enjoy the view.

Closely bolted due to the ledge below the bulge. Hanging draws is a chore, making onsights difficult. Once the draws are hanging though, and you know where the holds are, well, it makes a world of difference for redpoint burns.

Location

Starts just left of two Oak trees. Second route right of Solitaire.

Protection

Bolts, Fixed biner anchors
Tamara Hastie
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Tamara Hastie   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Thanks for the most excellent of pitches...Stoked I was able to send this one in three goes (crazy!) :) Wade and JJ- you rock it out!! Five Stars for sure- and no less!! Feb 6, 2012