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Areas in Mt. Elden Crags

Elysian Buttress 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lost Elden 8 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Middle Elden Canyon 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Oaklands 15 / 22 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
One Wall, The 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Red Dragon 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Sawyer Wall 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Secret Canyon 7 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Solitude Canyon 3 / 60 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 62
West Elden 36 / 4 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39
Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed (July 16th) for forest thinning Details

Description

Sitting just north of Flagstaff, Mt. Elden is marked by radio towers and a fire watch tower on top and by the large burn scar on it's southeastern and eastern slopes. Composed of Dacite, Mt. Elden has great bouldering, fun cragging, and even a few multiple pitch climbs of good quality. The rock tends to be sharp and rough providing great friction and the perfect Joshua Tree training ground.

 
J.Snyder on the possible FFA of Lost Elden Crack Photo: Jeff Deikis

Mt. Elden dominates many of the views from town, and as such the daydreams of many local climbers. Home to well established oldschool areas such as West Elden and Secret Canyon, it has in the last decade also brought to town a very unique style of sport climbing. The newer crags like Solitude Canyon, Red Dragon, and the One Wall boast some truly excellent pitches on priceless formations where a climber can expect to find every sort of hold imaginable.

 
JJ Schlick on an early send of Solitaire. 2009 Wade Forrest photo

 The areas themselves are spread out across the southern flanks of the mountain with considerable distance in between them. The actual cliff aspects cover every range, so there can be quite a bit of sun/shade searching throughout the seasons, and in light years climbable all year round.

Mt. Elden was formed about 50,000 years ago in the course of several months, and is technically a 'lava dome' formed of Dacitic lava flows. There was never an explosion, rather an out pouring of flows along lateral vents. Which simply means that the crags we climb on today were once huge flows of lava slowly oozing from the mound. Evidence of these flows can be seen on top of many of crags and elsewhere on the mountain in very cool waves and fins.




Getting There

Mt. Elden is located just north of Flagstaff. Highways 180 and 89A are used to access the climbing areas. Approaches vary from several minutes o 45 minutes.

191 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Elden Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 37
Five Easy Pieces
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Right Deception Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 38
Zit Slab
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 29
Elysian Buttress Original Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Where Eagles Dare
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
Man on the Moon
Sport 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Thunderbird Arête
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Broad Axe
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Mechanical Persistence
Sport 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
Solitaire
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 11
Continental Drift
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Crown Jewel
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
The Black Solitaire
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 5
The Hermit
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Lost Solitude
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Five Easy Pieces W Elden > Uptown
 37
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Right Deception Crack W Elden > Uptown
 53
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Zit Slab W Elden > Uptown
 38
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Elysian Buttress Original R… Elysian Buttress
 29
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Where Eagles Dare Secret Canyon > Kodachrome Spire/Area
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Man on the Moon Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 70
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Thunderbird Arête Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Broad Axe Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 22
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mechanical Persistence Elysian Buttress
 22
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Solitaire Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 36
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Continental Drift Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 11
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Crown Jewel Red Dragon
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Black Solitaire Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Hermit Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 5
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Lost Solitude Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 3
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Elden Crags »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Todd Savoy
Flagstaff
Todd Savoy   Flagstaff
Howdy! Does anyone have any info on Secret Canyon? I've got a copy of "A Cheap Way to Fly" but it kinda only scratches the surface. Thanks! Mar 2, 2010
Hey everyone I went climbing here over this summer and i lost my wedding ring . Its a black wedding ring. I never took it off till i started climbing and i slipped off grip and my wedding ring was stuck, thought my finger was going to get skinned. I have always put it on a carabiner and haven't lost it until now. So if anyone sees this i am pretty frustrated and would give just about anything to have it back. I have torn my house apart and have found nothing and i am missing a carabiner(always buy everything in sets of 8 so i can be sure i keep track of my counts)
I am going out this week to look and if i can find a metal detector ill be looking there too.
Ill be posting this in the forum so if this is the wrong place just delete it. Dec 19, 2014

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