Elevation: 8,882 ft
GPS: 35.239, -111.608 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 140,783 total · 906/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 20, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

Sitting just north of Flagstaff, Mt. Elden is marked by radio towers and a fire watch tower on top and by the large burn scar on it's southeastern and eastern slopes. Composed of Dacite, Mt. Elden has great bouldering, fun cragging, and even a few multiple pitch climbs of good quality. The rock tends to be sharp and rough providing great friction and the perfect Joshua Tree training ground.

Mt. Elden dominates many of the views from town, and as such the daydreams of many local climbers. Home to well established oldschool areas such as West Elden and Secret Canyon, it has in the last decade also brought to town a very unique style of sport climbing. The newer crags like Higher Solitude, the Solitude Wall, Oakland’s, the Red Dragon, Upper Middle Elden Canyon, and the One Wall boast some truly excellent pitches on priceless formations where a climber can expect to find every sort of hold imaginable.

The areas themselves are spread out across the southern flanks of the mountain with considerable distance in between them. The actual cliff aspects cover every range, so there can be quite a bit of sun/shade searching throughout the seasons and in light winters, climbable all year round. The approaches very from very mild for West Elden to arduous for the higher elevation crags.

Mt. Elden was formed about 50,000 years ago in the course of several months and is technically a 'lava dome' formed of Dacitic lava flows. There was never an explosion, rather an out pouring of flows along lateral vents. Which simply means that the crags we climb on today were once huge flows of lava slowly oozing from the mound. Evidence of these flows can be seen on top of many of crags and elsewhere on the mountain in very cool waves and fins.”JJ



Getting There

Mt. Elden is located just north of Flagstaff. Highways 180 and 89A are used to access the climbing areas. Approaches vary from several minutes o 45 minutes.

226 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Elden Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 39
Five Easy Pieces
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 41
Zit Slab
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
Elysian Buttress Original Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 57
Right Deception Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Man on the Moon
Sport 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
La Diosa
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Thunderbird Arête
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
Broad Axe
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 24
Mechanical Persistence
Sport 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Solitaire
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 11
Continental Drift
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Crown Jewel
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
The Black Solitaire
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
The Hermit
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Lost Solitude
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Five Easy Pieces W Elden > Uptown
 39
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Zit Slab W Elden > Uptown
 41
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Elysian Buttress Original R… Elysian Buttress
 31
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Right Deception Crack W Elden > Uptown
 57
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Man on the Moon Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 75
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
La Diosa W Elden > Downtown
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Thunderbird Arête Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Broad Axe Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 25
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mechanical Persistence Elysian Buttress
 24
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Solitaire Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 44
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Continental Drift Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 11
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Crown Jewel Red Dragon
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Black Solitaire Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Hermit Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Lost Solitude Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 3
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Elden Crags »

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Todd Savoy
Flagstaff
Todd Savoy   Flagstaff
Howdy! Does anyone have any info on Secret Canyon? I've got a copy of "A Cheap Way to Fly" but it kinda only scratches the surface. Thanks! Mar 2, 2010
Hey everyone I went climbing here over this summer and i lost my wedding ring . Its a black wedding ring. I never took it off till i started climbing and i slipped off grip and my wedding ring was stuck, thought my finger was going to get skinned. I have always put it on a carabiner and haven't lost it until now. So if anyone sees this i am pretty frustrated and would give just about anything to have it back. I have torn my house apart and have found nothing and i am missing a carabiner(always buy everything in sets of 8 so i can be sure i keep track of my counts)
I am going out this week to look and if i can find a metal detector ill be looking there too.
Ill be posting this in the forum so if this is the wrong place just delete it. Dec 19, 2014