Elevation: 7,842 ft
GPS: 35.24, -111.619 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 211,640 total · 1,255/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 20, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Sitting just north of Flagstaff, Mt. Elden is marked by radio towers and a fire watch tower on top and by the large burn scar on it's southeastern and eastern slopes. Composed of Dacite, Mt. Elden has great bouldering, fun cragging, and even a few multiple pitch climbs of good quality. The rock tends to be sharp and rough providing great friction and the perfect Joshua Tree training ground.

Mt. Elden dominates many of the views from town, and as such the daydreams of many local climbers. Home to well established oldschool areas such as West Elden and Secret Canyon, it has in the last decade also brought to town a very unique style of sport climbing. The newer crags like Solitude Canyon, Oakland’s, the Red Dragon, Upper Middle Elden Canyon, and the One Wall boast some truly excellent pitches on priceless formations where a climber can expect to find every sort of hold imaginable.

The areas themselves are spread out across the southern flanks of the mountain with considerable distance in between them. The actual cliff aspects cover every range, so there can be quite a bit of sun/shade searching throughout the seasons and in light winters, climbable all year round. The approaches very from very mild for West Elden to arduous for the higher elevation crags.

Mt. Elden was formed about 50,000 years ago in the course of several months and is technically a 'lava dome' formed of Dacitic lava flows. There was never an explosion, rather an out pouring of flows along lateral vents. Which simply means that the crags we climb on today were once huge flows of lava slowly oozing from the mound. Evidence of these flows can be seen on top of many of crags and elsewhere on the mountain in very cool waves and fins.”JJ



Getting There

Mt. Elden is located just north of Flagstaff. Highways 180 and 89A are used to access the climbing areas. Approaches vary from several minutes to 45 minutes.

243 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Elden Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 40
Five Easy Pieces
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 42
Zit Slab
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Elysian Buttress Original Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 58
Right Deception Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 82
Man on the Moon
Sport 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
La Diosa
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Thunderbird Arête
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
Broad Axe
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Mechanical Persistence
Sport 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Killer Queen
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Solitaire
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Crown Jewel
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 15
Black Solitaire
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
The Hermit
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Lost Solitude
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Five Easy Pieces W Elden > Uptown
 40
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Zit Slab W Elden > Uptown
 42
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Elysian Buttress Original R… Elysian Buttress
 33
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Right Deception Crack W Elden > Uptown
 58
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Man on the Moon Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 82
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
La Diosa W Elden > Downtown
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Thunderbird Arête Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 26
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Broad Axe Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 24
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mechanical Persistence Elysian Buttress
 26
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Killer Queen Middle Elden Ca… > Upper Middle El… > Hive
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Solitaire Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 44
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crown Jewel Red Dragon
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Black Solitaire Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 15
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Hermit Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Lost Solitude Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
 3
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Elden Crags »

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