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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin , The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Black Solitare Direct S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man On the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird ArĂȘte S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Page Views: 2,256 total, 24/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Continental Drift is an audacious route that climbs up a wide white streak twenty feet right of The Black Solitaire. Start on bulbous rock with big moves between big holds. Take your rest at the break, and bear hug the block to access the thin pocketed climbing above. The crux involves some serious crimping, body tension, balance, and a good huck to an undercling pocket! Or a slight variation to the right that follows a faint path of crimps which shorter folks like. I don't think it changes the grade. However both demand some serious cranking. You do however get a decent shake after that, but the steep 5.11 to the anchors will surely give you a run for your money.

Location

Middle of the Main Wall

Protection

13 bolts, long runners can be helpful in the lower middle section. fixed biner anchor.
Ethan Y  
Just tried this thing ground up on a whim after warming up on thundermoon and man, I have not been whipped so hard on a route since I was a wee little boy. Hard!! Especially with fat fingers that kept me from getting into the fingercrack out left at the crux. I imagine that this move wouldn't be so bad for a tall guy with slightly smaller fingers but I was stumped and had to find another way out right which felt waayyy easier but definitely left me feeling vulnerable away from the boltline. Oh well, I'm a sissy! Made it to the top and started dry-heaving. Never been happier clipping bolts with my hand in a huge crack. Came down only to realize that I had carried all of the gear in and had to carry it all out. Considered tossing my bag into the canyon and trundling it to the base of the canyon. Decided against it. Hiked out without falling or getting benighted. Baller. Gonna wait until it gets colder before I try this one again, but mannn amazing route and props to past ascentionists! Oct 15, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Nice work guys, this thing has now seen a handful of ascents in just the last week, and I'm psyched to see it. Skipping the 10th bolt is the key beta for the send! Feb 4, 2012
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.12c/d
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.12c/d
Good hard fun! Definitely more than one way to do this, John and I got it done the "easy" way and skipped the 10th bolt on the sends. Still clocks in at 12+ in my mind. Feb 4, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Props to Zoltan for making the 2nd ascent of this line today. A very strong send indeed. Jan 28, 2012
Blake M
 
Blake M  
 
JJ I think that is a good grade for it, but I would be interested to see what some other people think too. Either way its a great climb [and hard]. Thanks again for all your hard work up there. I excited to give this thing another go. Jan 14, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Well, I got to say that this thing has seen some strong talent, and the consensus is putting this rig more in the .13- range. Cool to see the sports action, and the falls are clean.... Jan 14, 2012