Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2010
Page Views: 2,510 total · 24/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Continental Drift is an audacious route that climbs up a wide white streak twenty feet right of The Black Solitaire. Start on bulbous rock with big moves between big holds. Take your rest at the break then bear hug the block to access the thin pocketed climbing above.

The long body crux involves some serious crimping, body tension, balance, and a deadpoint to an undercling pocket. Or a slight variation to the right that follows a faint path of crimps which is often favored by those with shorter wingspans. However, both ways demand some serious cranking. You do get a decent shake after that, though the final bit of exposed climbing to the anchors may set you adrift from your redpoint.

Location

Middle of the Main Wall

Protection

13 bolts, long runners can be helpful in the lower middle section. fixed biner anchor.

Photos

Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
  5.12c/d
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
  5.12c/d
Good hard fun! Definitely more than one way to do this, John and I got it done the "easy" way and skipped the 10th bolt on the sends. Still clocks in at 12+ in my mind. Feb 4, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12+
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12+
Nice work guys, this thing has now seen a handful of ascents in just the last week, and I'm psyched to see it. Skipping the 10th bolt is good beta for redpoints. Feb 4, 2012