Type: Sport, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick 2011
Page Views: 11,238 total · 131/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 28, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Description

This little four pitch line takes an arcing trajectory up and across the Main Wall linking together excellent and exposed climbing on good to great rock. This line was designed for several reasons, one of which is to serve as a multi pitch primer. It’s a perfect opportunity to explore multi pitch rope work, belay transfers, and quasi route finding.

For your comfort the flight path includes several outstanding belays, two of which are near perfect ledges which allow you to really enjoy the views and the higher expanses of this rugged canyon. Though the first belay is semi hanging, I would think that having three passengers, with two ropes on the voyage would be no problem at all. This little trip through the air is also a fully equipped sport adventure. A simple rack of 14 draws, 4 runners, and one 60 meter rope + personal runners is all you should need. 

PITCH 1, 5.10-, 100', 11 bolts- Start below, and just right of first bolt. Pull the little boulder problem, and mantle the horn. follow bolts through wandering climbing to the high crux bulge. Big pulls with good intermediates leads to the lip. Move right to a georgous rest. Beautiful rock leads to a two bolt anchor and a nice mini ledge. The first pitch is commonly done by itself, and the anchor is outfitted with ClimbTech steel mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.

PITCH 2, 5.7, 80', 6 bolts- From the belay start climbing up and right on a perfect swath of slabby terrain which is generously adorned with all sorts of beautiful holds. If you are pulling on blocks or climbing on bushes, you are off route as we chose the cleanest line to make seasonal weeding of no concern. Climb the obvious clean line. The harder parts of this pitch will feel semi slab tech and exposed as you climb just above the lip of the lower, steep wall. After bolt 6, scurry over some 4th class terrain past a small pine tree and up to an awesome ledge with 2, 1/2' bolts and black hangers for the belay. Welcome to the Space Station Belay.

You will see an equipped rappel anchor about 8' to the climber's right. This is the anchor used to rap down to Solitaire's anchor, which is about 40' down. From Solitaire's anchor it is 100' to the ground.

PITCH 3, 5th class, 80', 4 bolts- This is a walking traverse pitch which follows a natural break in this highly featured section of the wall just below the crown. The color of the stone and lichen on this pitch are off the hook. Don't forget to look where you are going, as you make your way to the distant corner, and the Lunar Ledge. This ledge is awesome, and it is hard not to spend a little time enjoying it.

PITCH 4, 5.8, 50', 4 bolts- This is neat little pitch which is characterized by an open dihedral which is jet black on the left side, and white on the right. After you have soaked up the ever luxurious Lunar Ledge, stem up the wide groove past 2 bolts and interesting moves, then mantle small ledge. Enjoy crisp holds, and attentive stemming up the final 25' of perfect climbing to the top of the wall!!

Whether you fly through it, or pack a picnic lunch, you are sure to enjoy this route which kind of feels like a little piece of Cochise Stronghold right in our backyard. The top of this wall is certainly worth poking around a bit. There are some awesome "frozen in time" lava fins and, other interesting geological oddities. You can get views of the San Francisco Peaks from the western side of the ridge, which is just a couple minutes west through the boulders. On a clear day, you can see Granite Mountain in Prescott. Enjoy.

DESCENT: A few notes. This route was originally designed to allow quick, unfettered access to the top of the wall for future developments, as well as, a maintenance route which allows access to the anchors of the harder routes on the wall below. There is a fully equipped rappel anchor at every belay, and if retreat is needed, you have three options. 1. Rap off the first set of anchors. 2. Do two raps down Solitaire. 3. Do two raps from the Lunar Ledge down Whiplash.

With a 60 meter rope, from the top of the 4th pitch, and the top of the wall-

Rappel 1, From the very top 2 bolt, chain anchor, rappel 90' down, past the Lunar Ledge, to 2 bolt anchor of the route Whiplash.

Rappel 2, From the Whiplash anchor rappel 80' down to the ground.

With a 70 meter rope you can rappel from the Lunar Ledge to the ground.

Location

Middle of the Main Wall, in between Thunderbird Arête and A faint Horizon.

Protection

14 draws, 4 runners, 60 meter rope.

The first pitch is commonly done by itself and the anchor is equipped with ClimbTech steel mussy hooks.
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This is the new date route in Flagstaff. So far it has seen only bromantic ascents by the First Ascentionists (Thanks so much for all of your work JJ and Wade!) and now by Q and myself. If you are looking for a safe, exciting, and beautiful route for a cool sunny day, look no further. Easy to do with a 60m rope and 15 draws. Get out and climb this new classic. Jan 1, 2012
Angela Mabe
Flagstaff,AZ
 
Angela Mabe   Flagstaff,AZ
 
Awesome work guys!!! Can't wait to get on this :) Jan 3, 2012
Jacob Dolence
Morgantown, WV
 
Jacob Dolence   Morgantown, WV
 
This route was super fun! Thanks to those who put the time and effort in on, not only the trail up to the area, but to the route also! The 5.10 pitch us super quality, the slab is surprisingly good, as is the last pitch! Jan 4, 2012
Jacob Dolence
Morgantown, WV
 
Jacob Dolence   Morgantown, WV
 
Grades felt pretty on. The first pitch might feel harder for a shorter climber with the reach at the rail, but the rest seemed right on. It was super fun, again thanks for putting the work into it. Stoked to get on Solitaire!!! Jan 8, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
What a hoot! This is a good multipitch primer in Flagstaff. The Lift-off and Spacewalk were a blast and just what the doctor ordered. Moving the belay on pitch 3 was very clean. Lunar Ledge is great to hang out on, and I wish the last pitch went for 400 more feet!

We ran it as a party of three and it worked well with one 70m rope. Two women and a man on the moon ascent! Only a dozen draws/runners and belay gear are needed. Though it looked like you can rap from Lunar Ledge to the ground in one 35m rap. Is this true?

Well done fellas. Great to see such heart, soul, and creativity put into the area, including the great trail work. Jan 16, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.10-
You can definitely make one rap from the Lunar Ledge to the ground with a 70 meter rope. Jan 16, 2012
Ryan Z
  5.10-
Ryan Z  
  5.10-
Fun route, great introduction to multi-pitch. You can link pitch 1 and 2 with a 70m and 18 draws. The belay station at the top of P1 is really quite something. I am 5'7" and I don't have any trouble clipping any bolts or moving onto the rail before the slab.

5.10- Oct 1, 2012
Arjuna
  5.10-
Arjuna  
  5.10-
Awesome climb! The first pitch is the best in my opinion. A little reachy but there's always a great hold just a little higher.

On the second pitch about 15 feet above the first belay station, there's a huge boulder that's very loose. It looks like a great hold but please be careful around it. Nov 12, 2012
Wade Forrest  
 
Just a heads-up, when linking the first two pitches (with a 70m) expect a decent amount of rope drag on the slab. Feb 19, 2013
Super fun great, movement and very doable climb for inexperienced follower Jun 28, 2017
Austin Kaiser
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Austin Kaiser   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This was rad! First time today. Thanks to the good folks who take time to establish these crags/routes. Nov 10, 2017