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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Black Solitare Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man on the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird Arête S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick
Page Views: 10,637 total · 133/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 28, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This little four pitch line takes an arcing trajectory up, and across the Main Wall linking together excellent, and exposed climbing on good to great rock. For your comfort the flight path also includes several outstanding belays, two of which are near perfect ledges which allow you to really enjoy the views, and the higher expanses of this rugged canyon. Though the first belay is semi hanging, I would think that having three passengers, with two ropes on the voyage would be no problem at all. This little trip through the air is also a fully equipped sport adventure. A simple rack of 14 draws, 4 runners, and one 60 meter rope + personal runners is all you should need. The first pitch is commonly done by itself so please leave the biners at the anchor when you move on.

If you are looking to get some multi pitch experience without any commitment then this is the route for you. 

Also, as and added bonus, you can now access the anchors of Solitaire via optional rappel after pitch 2. It is a great way to clean holds, hang draws, or retrieve gear.

PITCH 1, The Lift Off Pitch: 5.10-, 100', 11 bolts- Start below, and just right of first bolt. Pull the little boulder problem, and mantle the horn. follow bolts through wandering climbing to the high crux bulge. Big pulls with good intermediates leads to the lip. Move right to a georgous rest. Beautiful rock leads to a two bolt anchor and a nice mini ledge.

PITCH 2, The Spacewalk Pitch: 5.7, 80', 6 bolts- From the belay start climbing up, and right on a perfect swath of slabby terrain which is generously adorned with all sorts of beautiful holds. The harder parts of this pitch will feel semi slab tech, and exposed. After bolt 6, scurry over some 4th class terrain, past a small pine tree and up to an awesome ledge with 2, 1/2' bolts and black hangers for the belay. Welcome to the Space Station Belay.

You will see an equipped rappel anchor about 8' to the climber's right. This is the anchor used to rap down to Solitaire's anchor, which is about 40' down. From Solitaire's anchor it is 100' to the ground.

PITCH 3, The Apollo Pitch: 4th class, 80', 4 bolts- This is a walking traverse pitch which follows a natural break in this highly featured section of the wall just below the crown. The color of the stone and lichen on this pitch are off the hook. Don't forget to look where you are going, as you make your way to the distant corner, and the Lunar Ledge. This ledge is awesome, and it is hard not to spend a little time enjoying it.

PITCH 4, The Moonwalk Pitch: 5.8, 50', 4 bolts- This is neat little pitch which is characterized by an open dihedral which is jet black on the left side, and white on the right. After you have soaked up the ever luxurious Lunar Ledge, stem up the wide groove past 2 bolts and interesting moves, then mantle small ledge. Enjoy crisp holds, and attentive stemming up the final 25' of perfect climbing to the top of the wall!!

Whether you fly through it, or pack a picnic lunch, you are sure to enjoy this route, which kind of feels like a little piece of Cochise Stronghold right in our backyard. The top of this wall is certainly worth poking around a bit. There are some awesome "frozen in time" lava fins and, other interesting geological oddities. You can get views of the San Francisco Peaks from the western side of the ridge, which is just a couple minutes west through the boulders. On a clear day, you can see Granite Mountain in Prescott. Enjoy.

DESCENT: A few notes. This route was partially designed to allow access to the anchors of the harder routes on the wall below. With a little finagling one can reach all anchors of the center hard routes. There is a fully equipped rappel anchor at every belay, and if retreat is needed, you have three options.

With a 60 meter rope, from the top of the 4th pitch, and the top of the wall-

Rappel 1, From the very top 2 bolt, chain anchor, rappel 90' down, past the Lunar Ledge, to 2 bolt anchor of the route Whiplash.

Rappel 2, From the Whiplash anchor rappel 80' down to the ground.

With a 70 meter rope you can rappel from the Lunar Ledge to the ground.

Location [Suggest Change]

Middle of the Main Wall, in between Lucky Old Sun and Solitaire.

Protection [Suggest Change]

14 draws, 4 runners, 60 meter rope.
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
This is the new date route in Flagstaff. So far it has seen only bromantic ascents by the First Ascentionists (Thanks so much for all of your work JJ and Wade!) and now by Q and myself. If you are looking for a safe, exciting, and beautiful route for a cool sunny day, look no further. Easy to do with a 60m rope and 15 draws. Get out and climb this new classic. Jan 1, 2012
Angela Mabe
Angela Mabe   Flagstaff,AZ
Awesome work guys!!! Can't wait to get on this :) Jan 3, 2012
Flagstaff, AZ
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
This route was super fun! Thanks to those who put the time and effort in on, not only the trail up to the area, but to the route also! The 5.10 pitch us super quality, the slab is surprisingly good, as is the last pitch! Jan 4, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Right on, right on.... Hey, I don't want these grades to be sandbagged either, so please add your two cents on the topic. Thanks. Jan 7, 2012
Flagstaff, AZ
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
Grades felt pretty on. The first pitch might feel harder for a shorter climber with the reach at the rail, but the rest seemed right on. It was super fun, again thanks for putting the work into it. Stoked to get on Solitaire!!! Jan 8, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
What a hoot! This is a good multipitch primer in Flagstaff. The Lift-off and Spacewalk were a blast and just what the doctor ordered. Moving the belay on pitch 3 was very clean. Lunar Ledge is great to hang out on, and I wish the last pitch went for 400 more feet!

We ran it as a party of three and it worked well with one 70m rope. Two women and a man on the moon ascent! Only a dozen draws/runners and belay gear are needed. Though it looked like you can rap from Lunar Ledge to the ground in one 35m rap. Is this true?

Well done fellas. Great to see such heart, soul, and creativity put into the area, including the great trail work. Jan 16, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
You can definitely make one rap from the Lunar Ledge to the ground with a 70 meter rope. Jan 16, 2012
Ryan Z
Ryan Z  
Fun route, great introduction to multi-pitch. You can link pitch 1 and 2 with a 70m and 18 draws. The belay station at the top of P1 is really quite something. I am 5'7" and I don't have any trouble clipping any bolts or moving onto the rail before the slab.

5.10- Oct 1, 2012
Awesome climb! The first pitch is the best in my opinion. A little reachy but there's always a great hold just a little higher.

On the second pitch about 15 feet above the first belay station, there's a huge boulder that's very loose. It looks like a great hold but please be careful around it. Nov 12, 2012
Wade Forrest  
Just a heads-up, when linking the first two pitches (with a 70m) expect a decent amount of rope drag on the slab. Feb 19, 2013
Nate Young
Nate Young   Phoenix
We decided to do this route because it looked like a fun multipitch climb to do when it's still super hot in the valley. The hike up wasn't too bad, but it was pretty hot in the sun so we took frequent stops along the way.

We met another party at the base who had just come down from this route. They suggested we link up the first and second pitches, which we decided to do since doing a mid-belay in the afternoon sun didn't sound fun. This was an OK idea except for the wind picking up when the leader hit the second pitch belay station. This made communication pretty spotty and upped the annoyance factor of this route a bit more.

The 3rd pitch traverse shouldn't really be considered a pitch at all. We walked across it un-roped and it felt perfectly safe. This was a super disappointing section of the climb because I was hoping for a legitimately fun traversing section, not a foot wide shelf. ** I realize this was first bolted as an access route to the 5.12 routes below, but we didn't come up there to do any of those.

The 4th pitch was just dumb. It was difficult for a 5.8 dihedral, but it's so short the pay-off and long hike just doesn't justify it.

  • * If you are looking to hike all the way up to Higher Solitude, I would suggest doing the two 5.10- routes that are next to each other on either sides of the main prow. Do this route as a single pitch and don't bother with pitches 2-4 at all, just rap from the anchors for pitch #1.
Sep 14, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
If you are up there out of season, chances are you won't enjoy anything. This is not a good crag to be at unless the temps are right. See the Higher Solitude page for more info... Sep 15, 2014
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Mario Duarte / GUmojo / whoever you actually are:
Why don't you quit being such a "DB" and coward for a minute and come out from behind your fake names to state whatever the hell your problem is with JJ, Wade, and co.

Like señor Wylie, I think those guys have done a lot to make Flag an increasingly awesome spot for climbing and I for one appreciate their efforts. Oct 20, 2015
Super fun great, movement and very doable climb for inexperienced follower Jun 28, 2017
Austin Kaiser
Mesa, AZ
Austin Kaiser   Mesa, AZ
This was rad! First time today. Thanks to the good folks who take time to establish these crags/routes. Nov 10, 2017

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