All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Crags > Mt. Elden Crags > Solitude Canyon > Higher Solitude > Main Wall
Man On the Moon
Avg: 3.2 from 60 votes
Routes in Main Wall
|A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Assassin , The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Black Solitaire, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Black Solitare Direct S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Broad Axe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Lucky Old Sun S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Man On the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Thunderbird Arête S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 250 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick|
|Page Views:||10,016 total, 138/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Nov 28, 2011|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis little four pitch line takes an arcing trajectory up, and across the Main Wall linking together excellent, and exposed climbing on good to great rock. For your comfort the flight path also includes several outstanding belays, two of which are near perfect ledges which allow you to really enjoy the views, and the higher expanses of this rugged canyon. Though the first belay is semi hanging, I would think that having three passengers, with two ropes on the voyage would be no problem at all. This little trip through the air is also a fully equipped sport adventure. A simple rack of 14 draws, 4 runners, and one 60 meter rope + personal runners is all you should need.
Also, as and added bonus, you can now access the anchors of Solitaire via optional rappel after pitch 2. It is a great way to clean holds, hang draws, or retrieve gear.
PITCH 1, The Lift Off Pitch: 5.10-, 100', 11 bolts- Start below, and just right of first bolt. Pull the little boulder problem, and mantle the horn. Watch your foot holds. If you feel comfortable you can pull that first draw (or leave it), and scamper up to the ledge and clip the second bolt. The next 25' of climbing wanders around on the path of least resistance while navigating several mantle problems. When you get below the bulge, take a few breaths and enjoy the view a bit, because the 5.10- crux of the route is right above you. After the shake, launch up into the bulge through long reaches with good intermediates. This section is very safe, exposed, and just plain fun. Move right under the slab lip overhang past a couple of sharp pod jams, to a great rest just over the lip of the bulge. The rock quality from here on out is superb, and the next 30' feet of jug hauling up the steep slab is priceless. A 2 bolt anchor keeps you tethered to the Orbit Belay, which is semi hanging, but has a nice mini ledge.
PITCH 2, The Spacewalk Pitch: 5.7, 80', 6 bolts- From the belay start climbing up, and right on a perfect swath of slabby terrain which is generously adorned with all sorts of beautiful holds. The harder parts of this pitch will feel semi slab tech, and exposed. After bolt 6, scurry over some 4th class terrain, past a small pine tree and up to an awesome ledge with 2, 1/2' bolts and black hangers for the belay. Welcome to the Space Station Belay.
You will see an equipped rappel anchor about 8' to the climber's right. This is the anchor used to rap down to Solitaire's anchor, which is about 40' down. From Solitaire's anchor it is 100' to the ground.
PITCH 3, The Apollo Pitch: 4th class, 80', 4 bolts- This is a walking traverse pitch which follows a natural break in this highly featured section of the wall just below the crown. The color of the stone and lichen on this pitch are off the hook. Don't forget to look where you are going, as you make your way to the distant corner, and the Lunar Ledge. This ledge is awesome, and it is hard not to spend a little time enjoying it.
PITCH 4, The Moonwalk Pitch: 5.8, 50', 4 bolts- This is neat little pitch which is characterized by an open dihedral which is jet black on the left side, and white on the right. After you have soaked up the ever luxurious Lunar Ledge, stem up the wide groove past 2 bolts and interesting moves, then mantle small ledge. Enjoy crisp holds, and attentive stemming up the final 25' of perfect climbing to the top of the wall!!
Whether you fly through it, or pack a picnic lunch, you are sure to enjoy this route, which kind of feels like a little piece of Cochise Stronghold right in our backyard. The top of this wall is certainly worth poking around a bit. There are some awesome "frozen in time" lava fins and, other interesting geological oddities. You can get views of the San Francisco Peaks from the western side of the ridge, which is just a couple minutes west through the boulders. On a clear day, you can see Granite Mountain in Prescott. Enjoy.
DESCENT: A few notes. This route was partially designed to allow access to the anchors of the harder routes on the wall below. With a little finagling one can reach all anchors of the center hard routes. There is a fully equipped rappel anchor at every belay, and if retreat is needed, you have three options. However, with a 60 meter rope, from the top of the 4th pitch, and the top of the wall-
Rappel 1, From the very top 2 bolt, chain anchor, rappel 90' down, past the Lunar Ledge, to 2 bolt anchor of the route Whiplash.
Rappel 2, From the Whiplash anchor rappel 80' down to the ground.