Type: Sport, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Wade Forrest, JJ Schlick 2011
Page Views: 12,834 total · 128/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 28, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This little four pitch line takes an arcing trajectory up and across the Main Wall linking together excellent and exposed climbing on good to great rock. This line was designed for several reasons, one of which is to serve as a multi pitch primer. It’s a perfect opportunity to explore multi pitch rope work.

For your comfort the flight path includes several outstanding belays, two of which are near perfect ledges which allow you to really enjoy the views and the higher expanses of this rugged canyon. Though the first belay is semi hanging, I would think that having three passengers, with two ropes on the voyage would be no problem at all. This little trip through the air is also a fully equipped sport adventure. A simple rack of 14 draws, 4 runners, and one 60 meter rope + personal runners is all you should need. 

PITCH 1, 5.10-, 100', 11 bolts- Start below, and just right of first bolt. Pull the little boulder problem, and mantle the horn. Follow bolts through wandering climbing to the high crux bulge. Big pulls with good intermediates leads to the lip. Move right to a georgous rest. Beautiful rock leads to a two bolt anchor and a nice mini ledge. The first pitch is commonly done by itself, and the anchor is outfitted with ClimbTech steel mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.

PITCH 2, 5.7, 80', 6 bolts- From the belay start climbing up and right on a perfect swath of slabby terrain which is generously adorned with all sorts of beautiful holds. If you are pulling on blocks or climbing on bushes, you are off route as we chose the cleanest line to make seasonal weeding of no concern. Climb the obvious clean line. The harder parts of this pitch will feel semi slab tech and exposed as you climb just above the lip of the lower, steep wall. After bolt 6, scurry over some 4th class terrain past a small pine tree and up to an awesome ledge with 2, 1/2' bolts and black hangers for the belay. Welcome to the Space Station Belay.

You will see an equipped rappel anchor about 8' to the climber's right. This is the anchor used to rap down to Solitaire's anchor, which is about 40' down. From Solitaire's anchor it is 100' to the ground.

PITCH 3, 5th class, 80', 4 bolts- This is a walking traverse pitch which follows a natural break in this highly featured section of the wall just below the crown. The color of the stone and lichen on this pitch are off the hook. Don't forget to look where you are going, as you make your way to the distant corner, and the Lunar Ledge. This ledge is awesome, and it is hard not to spend a little time enjoying it.

PITCH 4, 5.8, 50', 4 bolts- This is neat little pitch which is characterized by an open dihedral which is jet black on the left side, and white on the right. After you have soaked up the ever luxurious Lunar Ledge, stem up the wide groove past 2 bolts and interesting moves, then mantle small ledge. Enjoy crisp holds, and attentive stemming up the final 25' of perfect climbing to the top of the wall!!

Whether you fly through it, or pack a picnic lunch, you are sure to enjoy this route which kind of feels like a little piece of Cochise Stronghold right in our backyard. The top of this wall is certainly worth poking around a bit. There are some awesome "frozen in time" lava fins and, other interesting geological oddities. You can get views of the San Francisco Peaks from the western side of the ridge, which is just a couple minutes west through the boulders. On a clear day, you can see Granite Mountain in Prescott. Enjoy.

DESCENT: A few notes. This route was originally designed to allow quick, unfettered access to the top of the wall for future developments, as well as, a maintenance route which allows access to the anchors of the harder routes on the wall below. There is a fully equipped rappel anchor at every belay, and if retreat is needed, you have three options. 1. Rap off the first set of anchors. 2. Do two raps down Solitaire From atop the second pitch. 3. Do two raps from the Lunar Ledge down Whiplash.

With a 60 meter rope, from the top of the 4th pitch, and the top of the wall-

Rappel 1, From the very top 2 bolt, chain anchor, rappel 90' down, past the Lunar Ledge, to 2 bolt anchor of the route Whiplash.

Rappel 2, From the Whiplash anchor rappel 80' down to the ground.

With a 70 meter rope you can rappel from the Lunar Ledge at the base of pitch three to the ground.

Location

Middle of the Main Wall, in between Thunderbird Arête and A Faint Horizon.

Protection

Pitch one= 11 bolts
Pitch two= 6 bolts
Pitch three= 3 bolts
Pitch four= 4 bolts 

The first pitch is commonly done by itself and the anchor is equipped with ClimbTech steel mussy hooks.

Photos