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A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man on the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird ArĂȘte S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
Page Views: 5,653 total · 55/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed for Forest Thinning Details

Description

For the grade, Solitaire stands out as one of Flagstaff's most classic sport routes, and one of the most beautiful.

Start by a small cedar tree on the right side of the squaty, chossy pillar just up hill from Man on the Moon. Climb through a large weakness filled with jugs to the first bulge. Eye your footholds on the right, below the bulge, because they will disappear all too quickly as you start to move up. Clever stemming, a hand jam, and a little laybacking will see you through to a good shake below the roof.

Once you get your bearings, you will be entering the crux as you begin to move out and right. The crux is bouldery, and you are indeed heading towards the Black Diamond hold, which is that rather pointy undercling flake.

At this point, The Black Solitaire breaks off right, while Solitaire moves up and left climbing on the left margin of the black streak. Eventually the grade backs off so enjoy the solitude as you work your way up the next 40' of stunning vertical stone.

You can rappel down Solitaire after the second pitch of Man on the Moon to hang draws or retrieve them. One 40’ rap, then a 100’ from Solitaire’s anchor to the ground. About 20’ down the first short rappel is a triangular notch which holds fast to snow and ice subjecting it to daily freeze thaw cycles. If you are projecting either Solitaire or Black Solitaire during the snowy months, you may want to clean out the crack in this notch to allow for proper drainage and faster drying times.

Location

Left hand side of black streaks.

Protection

15 Bolts. Bolts 5, 6, and 7 have chain draws. A full length runner on bolt 4 is nice. Long draws are nice as well for the rest of the route.
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Really an excellent pitch!
A tough onsight at the grade, but really fun dynamic moves through the crux. Mar 27, 2011
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
This is a great route... good job on putting this one up. Can't believe the shark tooth jug at the crux! Apr 25, 2011
RyanJames  
 
One word: Classic!!! Mar 21, 2012

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