Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
Page Views: 6,013 total · 57/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


43 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

For the grade, Solitaire stands out as one of Flagstaff's better sport routes and one of the most beautiful. I named it Solitaire as it was the only obvious diamond in the rough on what was then a pretty scruffy, chossy, and overgrown wall. It was the establishment of this line which spurred the eventual development of the whole crag. Things certainly do change over time.

Start by a small cedar tree on the right side of the squaty, chossy pillar just up hill from Man on the Moon. Climb through a large weakness filled with jugs to the first bulge. Clever stemming, a hand jam, and a little laybacking will see you through to a good shake below the roof.

Once you get your bearings, you will be entering the crux as you begin to move out and right under the roof. The crux is bouldery, and you are indeed heading towards the Black Diamond hold, which is that rather pointy undercling flake.

At this point, The Black Solitaire breaks off right, while Solitaire moves up and left climbing on the left margin of the black streak. Eventually the grade backs off so enjoy the solitude as you work your way up the next 40' of stunning vertical stone.

You can rappel down Solitaire after the second pitch of Man on the Moon to hang draws or retrieve them. One 40’ rap, then a 100’ from Solitaire’s anchor to the ground. About 8’ down the first short rappel is a triangular notch with a crack that gets choked with small pebbles and dirt from water run off. This notch holds fast to snow and ice subjecting it to daily freeze thaw cycles. If you are projecting either Solitaire or Black Solitaire during the snowy months, you may want to clean out the crack in this notch to allow for proper drainage and faster drying times.

Location

Left hand side of black streaks.

Protection

As of 11.25.18 all the fixed linkage hardware on this pitch has been upgraded to 3/8” steel including the chain draws.

13 lead bolts that may be seasonly equipped with ClimbTech perma draws (November-March). If you get up there and are only seeing chain extensions under the roof, just clip the bottom quicklinks on the chain with a draw and your rope should run as designed.

2 bolt chain anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.

Photos

Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
Really an excellent pitch!
A tough onsight at the grade, but really fun dynamic moves through the crux. Mar 27, 2011
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
This is a great route... good job on putting this one up. Can't believe the shark tooth jug at the crux! Apr 25, 2011
RyanJames  
 
One word: Classic!!! Mar 21, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
Thanks to Wade and the donations from several others we have equipped Solitaire with ClimbTech perma draws for the season. They will come down in March. Nov 17, 2018