Higher Solitude Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.241, -111.618 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||23,622 total, 254/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionHigher Solitude Canyon is an awesome mountain sport crag, which is perched on the center western flanks of Mt. Elden at about 8600'.
The Sailing Wall is a beautiful, 50' tall fin of rock which juts out of the hillside just below The Main Wall, and is nice if some folks in your party don't climb 5.10 because there will be at least a couple routes for them to do. You will find five routes with every grade from 5.8 through 5.11, and all of them generously display a fine array of pockets, rails, and fins.
The Main Wall itself is just a minute up the trail. This wall is unmistakable, tall, and stunning. The pitches on this section range from 70' to 100' tall, and there are certainly enough routes to wear you out, and make your day. Especially if you are wrestling with the harder lines.
**These two walls face almost due south, and once they see the sun in the morning, they stay in the sun till late in the day. Generally, if the temps for Flagstaff are in the range of 45-65 degrees you will be comfortable, though much on either side of that you will be either freezing, or complaining about how hot it is and hiding in the shade. It's elevation makes it somewhat counter intuitive, but the season up here is fall, moderate winters, and spring. Usually by April the season is coming to end.**
With a rack of 15 draws and long draws/ full length runners, a 70meter rope, between two people, the approach takes about 45-60 minutes. I have seen the hike and the altitude conspire to take it out of people. A certain conditioning is helpful for full enjoyment.
The rock is dacite, and as such has its own peculiarities. The quality of the rock runs the scale from poor to excellent, but the routes themselves are of generously good rock. However, that same rock has been described as sharp, and that it is. Tape will help many if you haven't been climbing on dacite all that much. There were efforts to take the sting out.
This is a newer area so watch your foot holds, and don't assume that every hold you might want to grab has been tested. I've seen plenty of holds come and go here, especially foot chips. Climb smart.
All in all an excellent local crag that certainly has it's miracle days once you figure it out. The views are great, the ambiance at the base is rugged, and though you park in town, once you are at the crag, you have a sense of being above it all. It is a unique, and raw area. There may come a day when this place will sport 40-50 lines, but time will tell. Also please be aware that this area is still a work in progress, so the occasional fixed rope may be encountered on a new line. Also, Due to the approach, it is common practice to stash gear over night for a two day affair. Please be respectful of this practice, and leave others gear where you might find it.
PLEASE LEAVE THE ANCHOR BINERS, unless it's days are numbered, and you are swapping it for a new one...
Getting ThereThe easiest approach for Higher Solitude will actually take you around the foot of Mt. Elden and Glorias via the Pipeline and Oldham trails. The reason for this is that in the seasons you will want to access this crag (Fall, Winter, Spring), there is a 50/50 chance that you will be hiking through some snow. The route described here will get you to the crag via the sunniest, and driest path. See map below.
Park at the Cul de sac on N Paradise Rd. maps.google.com/maps/place?…
From the Cul de sac you will want to make your way through the snarl of social trails that sprout from the trailhead, and head west or the mountain. You will most likely encounter an old road/trail that heads up a hill. Pass this, and continue on the small trail in the gully which will lead you up to the Pipeline trail. Head west on the Pipeline trail for a few minutes to the junction of the Lower Oldham Trail.
Continue up on the Lower Oldham Trail for another five minutes until you get to a large junction. Stay right. Continue to a junction of a social trail which comes in from the right. You can see Higher Solitude from this little junction. The former game trail, turned climber's trail breaks off above this junction area. There might be cairns, maybe not. This will eventually lead you to The Solitude Wall.
Just before you get to The Solitude Wall on the right, look for a small trail that breaks off left, and leads you into the gully. Follow this trail for a minute or so staying in the gully, and then look for a sharp left hand turn, and the trail which starts to lead you up and out of the gully on the left West side.
Continue on this steep and scenic trail as it winds it's way through the boulders, and small cliff bands high on the west side of the canyon. For most of this portion of the hike, you will be well above the bottom of the canyon, and have open views of The Solitude Wall across canyon. Keep pumping to the top!!
Classic Climbing Routes at Higher Solitude
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season