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Elevation: 7,000 ft 2,134 m
GPS: 35.23181, -111.62425
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Shared By: Orphaned User on Dec 5, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Gloria's is an extensive maze of boulders and low cliffs of dacite at the foot of Mount Elden, intertwined with caves and surrounded by a cool ponderosa forest. It's a popular quick hit for locals due to its short approach and easy access from downtown Flagstaff. It's also popular among hikers, bikers, dog-walkers, high school kids, and people between homes. Many boulders are conveniently identified by their graffiti.

The area was largely established by local hardpeople (including Bob Murray) in the 1980s, with waves of further development through the years. Problems are generally thin and technical, with a good mix of old-school moderates and crimpy testpieces, though several bold modern lines exist. The Elden dacite, a silicic volcanic rock reminiscent of slick granite, is notoriously rough on the hands. A lot of the problems are quite tall and landings range from perfect to horrendous. Many little-trafficked topropes and free solos exist on the cliffbands and larger boulders.

Gloria's is best in the spring and fall, but it is easy to chase shade in the summer, and many of the problems outside the caves dry quickly in the winter.

Getting There Suggest change

From downtown Flagstaff: Take San Francisco St. north through downtown until it intercepts Forest Ave. Make a right on Forest, pass Buffalo Park on the left (here Forest Ave. turns into Cedar), then make a left on West St. (there is a stoplight with a Safeway shopping center here.) Turn left on Paradise Rd. and park at the end of the cul-de-sac, careful not to block any driveways or mailboxes. Walk through the fence and navigate the maze of trails, trending generally toward the base of Mt. Elden. Look for a silver metal pipe sticking out of the ground that marks a trail straight to the boulders. Approach about 5 minutes.

OR

Accessing the boulders from Buffalo Park is your next best option, though it will increase the approach time to fifteen minutes. It is however, a more scenic approach.

From Buffalo Park, take the center trail (Arizona Trail) through the park heading north. Eventually you will pass a well house where the trail bends slightly NE. Continue following this trail out of the park and into the National Forest lands where eventually you will hit the Pipeline Trail which is a wide fire break with trails on either side. Keep following the same trail you have been on, crossing the Pipeline Trail and soon enough you will be at Gloria’s. 

Guidebooks

Suggest change
Tim Toula's A Cheap Way To Fly includes a bit of information and a topo, which is thorough but might be confusing for first-time visitors. A CD-R electronic guide is available from Vertical Relief that includes all the major problems with quality topos and color photos.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gloria's

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 11
Right Arete
Boulder
V2 5+
 12
Ballet Dancer
Boulder
V2 5+
 6
Penny Pocket
Boulder
V4 6B
 7
HCB - Sidepulls
Boulder
V4 6B
 12
An Undercling Thing
Boulder
V4 6B
 7
Short Boulder Traverse
Boulder
V4 6B
 13
Burger King
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 11
Heart Cave
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Mondo Bizarro
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 4
Heart Cave Direct
Boulder
V7 7A+
 6
Tombstone
Boulder
V7 7A+
 5
Cross-Eyed Nurse
Boulder
V8 7B
 8
The Peanut
Boulder
V8 7B
 6
Flyswatter
Boulder
V9 7C
 4
Dain's Bulge
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Right Arete An Undercling Thing /…
 11
V0 4 Boulder
Ballet Dancer An Undercling Thing /…
 12
V2 5+ Boulder
Penny Pocket An Undercling Thing /…
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
HCB - Sidepulls Heart Cave & Surround…
 7
V4 6B Boulder
An Undercling Thing An Undercling Thing /…
 12
V4 6B Boulder
Short Boulder Traverse Heart Cave & Surround…
 7
V4 6B Boulder
Burger King An Undercling Thing /…
 13
V4 6B Boulder
Heart Cave Heart Cave & Surround…
 11
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Mondo Bizarro Heart Cave & Surround…
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Heart Cave Direct Heart Cave & Surround…
 4
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Tombstone Tombstone Area
 6
V7 7A+ Boulder
Cross-Eyed Nurse Peanut Area
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
The Peanut Peanut Area
 8
V8 7B Boulder
Flyswatter Bill Boulder & Surrou…
 6
V8 7B Boulder
Dain's Bulge Bill Boulder & Surrou…
 4
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Gloria's »

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