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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin , The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Black Solitare Direct S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man On the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird ArĂȘte S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, Seth Dyer 2015
Page Views: 772 total, 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jan 25, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The broad axe has been around for thousands of years and was used for both felling trees, and hewing rough timber into useable lumber. It was an essential tool for any tradesman or pioneer back in the day.

The first 40' of this pitch is vertical, semi sequential pulling between hard to see pockets, finger buckets, and jugs.

After a natural ramp break, the second section climbs varnished edges and side pulls up a couple of beautiful black and bronze streaks. This lower angle, semi technical section will keep you on your toes, and your mind focused though there are actually very generous holds.

From a semi shared stance with Rusty Blade, lay back up the namesake black axe blade shaped feature to a distant sloping rail. A lone solution pocket above the sloping rail lets you do a classy layback switch move to varnished crimps over the lip, which quickly turn to wrapper jugs as the angle breaks.

A great pitch for the grade, and a nice warm up for the harder lines.

Location

First route you will encounter hiking up to the Main Wall. Left of two small pine trees, left of Rusty Blade

Protection

12 lead bolts
2 bolt chain anchor
14 draws total
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
I'll be the first to say it. 4 stars Mar 13, 2016