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Black Solitaire
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 26
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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A Faint Horizon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Assassin, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Solitaire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Black Solitaire Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Broad Axe S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lucky Old Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Man on the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Marble House S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rusty Blade S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thunderbird Arête S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 35.24103, -111.61823 |
| FA: | Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015 |
| Page Views: | 6,270 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Feb 14, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A sweeping, stunning pitch, The Black Solitaire is in many ways thee line on the Main Wall. Quality rock and super fun climbing from the bottom to the top that gets consistently harder until the final redpoint crux moving towards the last bolt. This pitch is the harder twin to Solitaire, which the line also starts on, for a diamond can only be polished by means of other diamonds. The positioning, the wide open air, the flowy nature of the climbing and the stark and dark beauty of the line make it a true gem.
With the addition of the bolted direct start, the Black Solitaire is now technically speaking, a linkup. After the bulge crux of Solitaire at bolt #8, keep moving up and right into a fat, black water streak. A pumpy shake is followed by thin cranking or more dynamic options, then a superb series of technical, crimpy compression moves. It seems no matter what beta you go with, it's pretty brilliant climbing. Gorgeous jugs await at the top and a standing anchor clip, so just keep going!
A bonus is that it is rather easy to lower from Solitaire's anchor to The Black Solitaire anchor to rig TRs or hang draws, etc.
Protection
13 lead bolts that may be seasonly equipped with ClimbTech perma draws (November-March). If you get up there and are only seeing chain extensions under the roof, just clip the bottom quicklinks on the chain with a draw and your rope should run as designed.
2 bolt, chain anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.
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