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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin , The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Black Solitare Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man On the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird ArĂȘte S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Page Views: 892 total · 12/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Mar 4, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Slipstream is a long awaited pitch which tackles the beautiful bulging green center of the Main Wall.

Start on Solitaire, and clip the first four bolts of that route. I had a draw, and then a full length runner on bolt #4, and this worked pretty well. Stay well below the first chain draw on Solitaire, and move left with big feet, and a few scrappy hand holds. Mantel the small ledge, and prepare yourself for some serious tech festing.

The boulder problem crux of the route comes right off the ledge, and there are a couple ways of doing it. A perfect, miracle finger lock appears just when you want it, but it is a short lived pleasure. Crimp your way to the large orange rail up and right, then mantel your way to another set of hard moves that guard the angle break. At this point the grade drops, and the last 20' of climbing is a pleasure cruise up fantastic features to the fixed biner anchor.

Location

Shares the start and first 4 bolts of Solitaire.

Protection

A total of twelve bolts, and as many long draws as you have. One full runner with a draw on bolt #4 works well.

The best way to clean this route would be to have someone follow it, however, it is by no means a nightmare to clean on the way down.

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