Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2012|
|Page Views:||1,470 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Mar 4, 2012|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
Start on Solitaire, and clip the first four bolts of that route. I had a draw and a full length runner combined on bolt #4, and this worked pretty well. Stay well below the first chain draw on Solitaire then move left with big feet and a few scrappy hand holds. Mantel the small ledge and prepare yourself for some serious tech festing.
The boulder problem crux of the route comes right off the ledge, and there are a couple ways of doing it. A perfect, miracle finger lock appears just when you need it but it is a short lived pleasure. Crimp your way to the large orange rail up and right, then mantel your way to another set of hard moves that guard the angle break. At this point the grade drops, and the last 20' of climbing is a pleasure cruise up fantastic features to the chain anchor.
2 bolt chain anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.
The best way to clean this route would be to have someone follow it, however, it is by no means a nightmare to clean on the way down.