Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2012
Page Views: 1,003 total · 12/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Mar 4, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Slipstream is a long awaited pitch which tackles the beautiful bulging green center of the Main Wall. You’ll feel like you have been taken for quite the journey when you reach the anchors.

Start on Solitaire, and clip the first four bolts of that route. I had a draw and a full length runner combined on bolt #4, and this worked pretty well. Stay well below the first chain draw on Solitaire then move left with big feet and a few scrappy hand holds. Mantel the small ledge and prepare yourself for some serious tech festing.

The boulder problem crux of the route comes right off the ledge, and there are a couple ways of doing it. A perfect, miracle finger lock appears just when you need it but it is a short lived pleasure. Crimp your way to the large orange rail up and right, then mantel your way to another set of hard moves that guard the angle break. At this point the grade drops, and the last 20' of climbing is a pleasure cruise up fantastic features to the fixed biner anchor.

Location

Shares the start and first 4 bolts of Solitaire.

Protection

A total of twelve bolts, and as many long draws as you have. One full runner with a draw on bolt #4 works well.

The best way to clean this route would be to have someone follow it, however, it is by no means a nightmare to clean on the way down.

Photos

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