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Routes in Elysian Buttress

Elysian Buttress Original Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mechanical Persistence S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unemployment Line, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: D. Cole, P. Rullman
Page Views: 4,313 total, 31/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 20, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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21 Opinions

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Description

Mechanical Persistence is a great four pitch sport route up the Elysian Buttress. Expect fun and engaging climbing. This route makes for a great link-up with the Original Route.

Pitch 1 (5.10a) - The start for this route is located up and right from the Elysian's Original Route and down and left from the descent gully. Climb straight up vertical face past a few bolts then up a featured slab with more fixed pro. Move left at the top of this pitch to a two bolt anchor. (~90')

Pitch 2 (5.9) - Move up and left from anchors climbing over broken terrain to another two bolt anchor. (~90')

Pitch 3 (5.11a/b) - Move up and left off the belay and climb thin crimps past many bolts to a wonderful thank god hold. Finish on easy slab to nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. (~100')

Pitch 4 (5.10b) - Straight up off belay to the top of the formation. (~85')

Descent - Rappel down the 4th pitch of Mechanical Persistence to the top of pitch 3. From this anchor rap 70' down and right to a large ledge. Walk to the far side of this ledge and scramble down the gully and back to your packs. It is possible to rappel down the entire route. However it is nearly impossible to pull the ropes from the anchor atop pitch #3.

Location

During the approach aim for the largest lefthand buttress. Mechanical Persistence is the bolted line left of the descent gully.

Protection

12-14 draws
Gear for anchors
Climbed the other day with Daniel. There's nothing quite like making eye contact with a dive bombing falcon, mid-crux. Great route. Jul 1, 2017
I'm glad to see that this route is getting some traffic and that people are enjoying it.

@ Nick Dolhyj - I don't know who put the random bolt up to the right of the route. The bolt was there before we put the route in. There are a number of random bolts in the area and probably quite a few more routes that could be developed on some of the other formations.

@s.crabtree and @ DLDeville - We cleaned as much of the loose flakes(about 4-6 inches thick) off of pitch 2 as we could when we put up the route. We also tried to put the bolts into the solid rock. I don't think that they are going anywhere unless some ice gets behind it.

@Blake M - We have linked P1/P2 and P3/P4 with a 60 m rope. The rope drag can be high if you don't use slings on some of the bolts. The second gets to climb the whole route all in one shot!

-Daniel Dec 5, 2016
Blake M  
You can link P1 and P2 with a 70m (maybe a 60 too??). P3 and P4 probably are best not to link, loads of rope drag. Jan 29, 2016
David Deville
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
David Deville   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
No falcon attacks and though there is definitely a hollow flake on pitch 2 I am wondering if the worst of it is gone? Did not seem sketchy at all, the flake is thick and you basically just walk up it since the angle is so low at that spot. The crux is well bolted but still a little crumbly. A nice outing for sure, but don't miss the 5.7 trad route farther left! Thanks for all the hard work that went into this route, amazing to have this in our backyard! Also, approach from below (Sandy Seep or similar), walking to this thing from Elden Lookout Rd is heinous! Nov 10, 2015
Eva Christ  
 
No falcon attacks. Thanks for a great route. Oct 4, 2015
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.11b
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.11b
Quick video from the summit.

Elysian Buttress - Mechanical Persistence Climbing - Summit Video Jul 14, 2015
JoeyJa
 
JoeyJa  
 
We did not see Eliot's comment until after we climbed the route yesterday.

There is definitely a Peregrine Falcon nest and they were dive bombing us yesterday. We did not see them and they did not see us until Nate was at the top of pitch 2 and I was starting on pitch 2. I quickly climbed pitch 2 and then they left us alone. Could've been worse! Jul 13, 2015
As of 7/11/15 there is what appears to be a Peregrine falcon nest 30 feet up and left from the belay above pitch 1. Two mature Falcons began aggressively screeching and then buzzed me way too close for comfort. Wouldnt recommend disturbing these beautiful (and scary!) creatures, at least until their hatchlings are outta there! Jul 11, 2015
Outstanding route! I was expecting the first pitch to be loose, but it was solid and super fun. The entire climb is very well protected.

Fingertips were very tender by the last pitch, which wasn't the gimme I thought it might be. Oct 4, 2014
Nick Dolhyj
Flagstaff, Arizona
Nick Dolhyj   Flagstaff, Arizona
just did this route yesterday/last night. between the start of pitch 1 and the descent gully there is one non-camouflaged bolt set pretty high up on the face. for a second i thought this was the start of the route but luckily took a quick peek farther left and found the actual start. anyone know what the deal is with this bolt? Nov 11, 2013
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I really enjoyed this route and the hike in! Super classic for Flag multipitch. Just a great day out. Feb 5, 2012
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
FA: D. Cole and P. Rullman Fall 2002 May 2, 2011
Pull that flake off and it really will become wild and remote.

Always been surprised more hasn't been done out on this rock! May 1, 2009
Jerimiah Gentry
Denver, CO
 
Jerimiah Gentry   Denver, CO
 
Did this with Matheuw Brown in the cold cold winter! Very fun but when it's an overcast winter day dacite feels like cast iron! The route feels wild and remote, even though your clipping bolts and I think you can see the mall from up there... Apr 30, 2009
s.crabtree  
 
fun climb! gets sun all day; just did this today in t-shirts, mid-winter.
there is an unsettling section of pitch 2 where the climb ascends a giant hollow flake for a couple bolts - hollow enough that my belayer could hear the resounding thud from about 30' below when i knocked on it. it feels like it's about to exfoliate out from under you; i was rather relieved to clip the bolt right above it. (there's another similar section on pitch 4.) but don't let this deter you, it's a great line in a stunning location. Jan 31, 2009