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Routes in Downtown

5.8 Exit Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.6 Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8+ Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cracktus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doug Scott Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exit Strategy V10 7C+
Flameout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Impossible Problem, The V4 6B
Kid Gloves T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Diosa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My Opinion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pinnacate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Point, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ralph Macchio V5+ 6C+
Stem Corner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Watermelon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dean Hoffman with help from Johnny Lynch
Page Views: 2,474 total, 20/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on Aug 23, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Very visually pleasing this route has great moves with good exposure. Greg P. claims it as the best route he's climbed at this area. Gear with one bolt, starts just left of Flameout. Climb up the rolling slab, protecting the .75 crack and then through the OW and slabby face to large ledge system. The real business comes right off the ledge, be sure to find the tricky #1 camalot before making the moves to the bolt, steep balancey climbing on big holds through one bolt, pulling up to a thin crack that takes small cams. DO NOT FALL BEFORE CLIPPING THE BOLT-if yer unsure you can do the move climb Flameout first and hand a draw on rappel... That being said it Feels bolder than it really is. Up to small perch for one last small cam and then pull on the big rail all the way to the top. For the true experience stay on the steep face all the way to the tippy top.

Location

Just left of Flameout. Bright green lichen face. Rap the route.

Protection

This is probably more than you need, but..., the key pieces are the micros, and .4 or .5 camalot for the placement.
Cams from Micros to #3, doubles in .75 and #1? Slings and a QD yippee.

Photos

J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Climb it Left, Right, Up, Down, No hands, no feet, no hands or feet. Still one of the best around in Flagstaff. Heroic view of Flag while climbing a green face.

Anyone know what the deal is with the recent bolts added just to the right of L.D.? Wasn't there last Summer, nice line, bolted steep juggy grips... can start on Flameout or L.D. 5.10+ish... Oct 20, 2015
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
TRed this route again a few days ago after climbing Flameout. So good. Jul 1, 2012
Dean Hoffman  
 
Albert, CJD, if you're around you should head up and do the "new" variation, through the bolt. I think you will find it to be quite good. Next time I'm up there I'll have a look at how you would access it from the left. As it is the moves through the bolt are pretty exciting and have foiled more than one on-sight. Not sure I'd try the direct line without it. And again as I mentioned before I wasn't trying to "retro bolt" anyones route, none of my resources noted it.

ps Albert, long time no see, you still up on Oak? Mar 6, 2011
CJD
Chino Valley, AZ
CJD   Chino Valley, AZ
I did this one in the mid 80's too. Nov 24, 2010
This route is but one of several West Elden old school testpieces which may not be in print format.

Me chum onsighted this route today with just a few little cams and two big nuts, traversing in from the left and skipping the (retro?) bolt by climbing in above it, following the natural line of holds up this sweet face. What a beautiful clean line, a proud, testy journey from back in the day like so many others at this lovely traditional area.

I can see how the bolt allows one to make more of a "direct" start, bypassing several feet of exciting moves on tricky nuts, steep rock.

Omega Z, what a classic all natural West Elden face climb.

"Hard nutting, runout, Grossman style classic".
Amen. Sep 12, 2010
No worries Dean...

Looks similar but hard to say. I do recall the route wandering in a Z fashion. If it's the same line, the bolt would probably allow a direct start where we might have been climbing in from the left.

I recall the upper stuff being run out, as in work the moves out before committing. Someday I'll try and check it out. Apr 16, 2008
Dean Hoffman  
 
Hey Paul, thanks for the heads up, if it is the same line I apologize for dropping a bolt in it. I didn't see anything listed in that area in Tims book. Regardless its a pretty stellar climb. Apr 13, 2008
Hard to tell without being there, but this looks suspiciously like Omega Z, a route done by Jim Haisley and me (lead) somewhere around 1980. I recall it being a testy 5.10 lead. Hard nutting, run out, a Grossman style classic.

Someday when I'm back at WE I'll see if I can figure out if it's the same line. Apr 9, 2008
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
This route is by far the best 5.10 at West Elden. Every move on the headwall is just awesome. Great exposure and great climbing. This route is definitly goddess worthy.

After the bolt I placed a Blue Metolius TCU, then a Purple Metolius TCU. At the small stance look for a green Camalot placement in a pod. Nov 7, 2007