Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dean Hoffman with help from Johnny Lynch
Page Views: 2,833 total · 19/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on Aug 23, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: West Elden is closed to entry due to the Museum Fire. Details

Description

Very visually pleasing this route has great moves with good exposure. Greg P. claims it as the best route he's climbed at this area. Gear with one bolt, starts just left of Flameout. Climb up the rolling slab, protecting the .75 crack and then through the OW and slabby face to large ledge system. The real business comes right off the ledge, be sure to find the tricky #1 camalot before making the moves to the bolt, steep balancey climbing on big holds through one bolt, pulling up to a thin crack that takes small cams. DO NOT FALL BEFORE CLIPPING THE BOLT-if yer unsure you can do the move climb Flameout first and hand a draw on rappel... That being said it Feels bolder than it really is. Up to small perch for one last small cam and then pull on the big rail all the way to the top. For the true experience stay on the steep face all the way to the tippy top.

Location

Just left of Flameout. Bright green lichen face. Rap the route.

Protection

This is probably more than you need, but..., the key pieces are the micros, and .4 or .5 camalot for the placement.
Cams from Micros to #3, doubles in .75 and #1? Slings and a QD yippee.

Photos