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Routes in Downtown

5.6 Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8 Exit Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8+ Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cracktus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doug Scott Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flameout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Kid Gloves T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Diosa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My Opinion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pinnacate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Point, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stem Corner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Watermelon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FOS?? E.Meudt, J.Cral -May '99 or '00
Page Views: 316 total · 9/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed (July 16th) for forest thinning Details

Description

'My Opinion' maybe one of those lines that FOS use to throw a TR on back in the day. Hard to say...

E.Meudt spied the line and went at it hooking and climbing his way up the featured slab from below. Tapping in two bolts from stances and finagling gear in for the run out exit. This wasn't bold enough, so someone chopped the route and so it sat...

After letting the bolt holes cool off.. E.Meudt decided that the slab was too good to let sit scarred so he returned in the Summer of '15 to restore the hardware and bring the route back to life. After a gentle discussion it was decided that adding an extra bolt to the exit would make the route much less dangerous and help promote climbers to get on it. Possibly the most fun, featured face moderate on the cliff.

Location

Right side of the beautiful green lichened arete, left of 'Grass Crack'. Start on slab below. It is possible to climb either side of the tree seam to the base of the face. Right side is harder and has no protection for first 20+ feet.

Protection

3 bolts
Finger sized piece or nuts for lower runout slab
Optional thin hands piece for horizontal before final bolt
2 bolt anchor with biners

Photos

ericm  
Thank you Jeff for adding this description and the bolt! I am unsure if this was top roped prior to our lead. I asked Scott Baxter if he knew about anyone climbing this line and he did not. He asked if it was worthy and I said yes, and we went for it. The route was then lead about 2-3 times by a few friends and then chopped. I always liked it and decided a restoration project was in order and I set out to reinstate the route and add an anchor because the top is sketchy and a natural anchor difficult to set up. We rated the route 5.8- with a wink and a nod, of course!

PS. For added fun, do not clip the last bolt. Just kidding! Jan 27, 2016

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