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Routes in Downtown

5.8 Exit Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.6 Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8+ Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cracktus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doug Scott Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exit Strategy V10 7C+
Flameout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Impossible Problem, The V4 6B
Kid Gloves T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Diosa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My Opinion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pinnacate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Point, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ralph Macchio V5+ 6C+
Stem Corner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Watermelon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Flagstaff old school
Page Views: 76 total, 1/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on May 22, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Located about 100' south of the fence line is a slab split by two cracks. The left crack goes at 5.6 while the right is about 5.8+. Both routes end at a rounded ledge sitting under a steep prow. (This prow is a 12.a TR called Landwhale.)

To climb Unnamed 5.8+, start up a 5.easy slab trending right to the base of the right crack. Climb the crack until it ends, place some gear, then ascend the runout slab above to the finishing ledge. This slab can be scary and a little dangerous. The best holds are a little left of the initial crack line. Going this direction keeps the grade at 5.8+. Staying a little right of the initial crack line is more like 5.9 slab.

Descent - Downclimb 4th and easy 5th class terrain in the gully to the left of this route. A better option is to climb one of the excellent routes above this crack to the clifftop.

Protection

Half Set Stoppers
.5 - #2 Camalot
Draws/Slings

Photos

Elias Jordan
Mazama, WA
  5.8+ PG13
Elias Jordan   Mazama, WA
  5.8+ PG13
If you're interested in rope soloing this & the left 5.6 crack you can set up a bottom anchor in a deep flaring pod just below the aforementioned 5.6 with 2x #1 & 1x #2 C4's. Apr 18, 2014