Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Flagstaff old school
Page Views: 750 total · 3/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on May 22, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Located about 100' south of the fence line is a slab split by two cracks. The left crack goes at 5.6 while the right is about 5.8+. Both routes end at a rounded ledge sitting under a steep prow. (This prow is a 12.a TR called Landwhale.)

To climb Unnamed 5.8+, start up a 5.easy slab trending right to the base of the right crack. Climb the crack until it ends, place some gear, then ascend the runout slab above to the finishing ledge. This slab can be scary and a little dangerous. The best holds are a little left of the initial crack line. Going this direction keeps the grade at 5.8+. Staying a little right of the initial crack line is more like 5.9 slab.

Descent - Downclimb 4th and easy 5th class terrain in the gully to the left of this route. A better option is to climb one of the excellent routes above this crack to the clifftop.

Protection Suggest change

Half Set Stoppers
.5 - #2 Camalot
Draws/Slings

Photos

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