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Routes in Downtown

5.6 Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8 Exit Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8+ Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cracktus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doug Scott Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flameout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Kid Gloves T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Diosa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My Opinion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pinnacate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Point, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stem Corner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Watermelon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FOS?? FFA J.Snyder 10/2015??
Page Views: 132 total · 4/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Oct 20, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed (July 16th) for forest thinning Details

Description

A bold lead or proud top rope.

Possibly one of the proud Flag Old School top ropes long forgotten. Maybe it was lead back in the day.

P.O. that without the help of 'My Opinion' and micro cams a lead would have been a solo. When first rapped down, looked like it was going to be a modern bolted face climb and popular, if at all possible.

After swinging around, chopped holes were discovered just to the right of the arete. Since bolted squeeze jobs next to chopped routes isn't a thing... The Green Arete was left alone.

Back to the future. Bolts returned to 'My Opinion' and a A.D.T. micro gear nest was discovered that made leading the left side of the arete possible.

Start up slab below The Green Arete. Below steep face lean out and clip first bolt but stay perched on left side of the arete. Climb tenuous and steep arete moves before a jug rest horizontal. Build a death triangle of micro swag and punch into the steep arete finish above. It is possible to bail out and mantle over onto 'My Opinion' and clip the final bolt if your not feeling the buzzy finish out left.

Never took the fall... maybe someone could push a bag off the top for a lesson in physics. Might be clean fall if the gear nest holds?!

Location

Left side of green lichened face. Just left of 'My Opinion'
Starts on slab just left of 'Grass Crack'

Protection

2 bolts of 'My Opinion', Long Runners to keep rope off of sharp arete.
#000 C3
Small Nuts
Runners

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