Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: ccox, Bloom, Padilla, Gaun, Ellison
Page Views: 789 total · 9/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Aug 9, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Climb a little crux out the alcove on good pro to the featured arete with four bolts.

Location

This climb is just right of Watermelon and Flame Out, and climbs out of the right side of the same alcove as Watermelon. Lower from chains at the top. This anchor can also be used after climbing Watermelon.

Protection

Two .5 camalots for before and after the bulge, two 0 TCU's(or equivalent)for the thin horizontal slot near the lip of the bulge, some runners, and some quickdraws for the arete.

Photos

Colin Cox
  5.10+
Colin Cox  
  5.10+
The point is getting to TR Watermelon, which is also dubious. The gear is small through the lower crux but you have bomber gear just below to keep you from grounding. Typical West Elden. The dirt and lichen just need to be brushed off again through that section. The bush commands that you climb the arete instead of the bush choked crack, but maybe it could be trimmed back a bit. Getting down easily is also the point. I hoped The Point and Watermelon would clean up with the anchor being up there to lure more hands and feet to do the cleaning. Doesn't seem to be working. Jul 4, 2015