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Routes in Downtown

5.6 Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8 Exit Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.8+ Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cracktus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doug Scott Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flameout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Kid Gloves T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Diosa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My Opinion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pinnacate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Point, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stem Corner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Watermelon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: ccox, Bloom, Padilla, Gaun, Ellison
Page Views: 774 total · 9/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Aug 9, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed (July 16th) for forest thinning Details

Description

Climb a little crux out the alcove on good pro to the featured arete with four bolts.

Location

This climb is just right of Watermelon and Flame Out, and climbs out of the right side of the same alcove as Watermelon. Lower from chains at the top. This anchor can also be used after climbing Watermelon.

Protection

Two .5 camalots for before and after the bulge, two 0 TCU's(or equivalent)for the thin horizontal slot near the lip of the bulge, some runners, and some quickdraws for the arete.

Photos

Colin Cox
  5.10+
Colin Cox  
  5.10+
The point is getting to TR Watermelon, which is also dubious. The gear is small through the lower crux but you have bomber gear just below to keep you from grounding. Typical West Elden. The dirt and lichen just need to be brushed off again through that section. The bush commands that you climb the arete instead of the bush choked crack, but maybe it could be trimmed back a bit. Getting down easily is also the point. I hoped The Point and Watermelon would clean up with the anchor being up there to lure more hands and feet to do the cleaning. Doesn't seem to be working. Jul 4, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I don't know, you had better go lead it again.... Maybe adding three bolts at the bottom would help. I don't usually comment on routes, but this left such bad taste in mouth, I had to get it out. Can't win em all. Jul 4, 2015
Colin Cox
  5.10+
Colin Cox  
  5.10+
I guess this is what happens when I put up a route while walking on eggshells. I certainly wouldn't have done it that way anywhere else on Elden. I will reconsider. Jul 5, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
With some love and cleaning, I could see it being a worthy sport climb. It's just so dirty like the rest of Elden. That place could used a crag day of trail maintenance, route scrubbing, and anchor placement. Jul 5, 2015

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