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Routes in Downtown

5.8 Exit Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.6 Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8+ Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cracktus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doug Scott Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exit Strategy V10 7C+
Flameout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Impossible Problem, The V4 6B
Kid Gloves T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Diosa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My Opinion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pinnacate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Point, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ralph Macchio V5+ 6C+
Stem Corner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Watermelon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Doug Scott , Scott Baxter, Tom Taber, Lee Dexter, Karl Karlstrom, et al. (early 70's)
Page Views: 1,025 total, 7/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The Doug Scott Route climbs out the right side of the Twilight Zone alcove. Start up a low angle slab then face climb up the right hand wall, around a small roof, the up a slab to the left. There is a nice tree to use as an anchor at the top of the route.

Descent - Rappel from a tree or take the walk down 100' to the climber's right.

Protection

Medium to Large Stoppers (the roof takes a perfect stopper placement)
Medium Cams
1 x #5 Camalot Optional

Photos

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Flex
Flagstaff, AZ
Flex   Flagstaff, AZ
There is now a 2 bolt anchor above Twilight Zone that makes a convenient descent for the Doug Scott Route. There are bolts with webbing and a biner now. It could use some quicklinks and chain.

This route is short but still very fun. Sep 14, 2014
ericm  
Hey Darren,
I finally saw this post- I have not put anchors on anything up there, however I would like to- The walkdown is horrible anymore and the place needs some work- interested?

Eric Nov 2, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
thanks ericm! which routes did you put anchors on? Jun 14, 2012
ericm  
I agree that West Elden is in need of some anchors at the top. I noticed there are some anchors which I think are beneficial because I walked down recently and it was awful- The trail was obliterated due to the blow downs and this generally made for a bad experience. I would be willing to give time and anchors to make this happen-
Sincerely,

Eric Jun 25, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Hey Eric,

I don't climb there a ton, but last time I did Twilight Zone I thought it would be a service to add a set of anchors. I am sure there are quite a few pitches there in the same situation. I would see it as community service, but not all may agree with that. Jun 15, 2011
ericm  
Hey all,

I was up at West Elden yesterday and climbed a few of the classics and as always I feel the climbing is great. I do feel that the area needs some fixed anchors, especially on the Doug Scott Route, due to the rope eating crack that is caked with dirt. I believe fixed anchors would help because lets face it the top of this crag is a choss pile with myriads of new blow downs from all the dead trees. In this modern time of Flagstaff Climbing would anyone object-

Sincerely,
Eric Jun 14, 2011
First ascent Doug Scott (yes, THAT Doug Scott- in town for a slide show), Scott Baxter, Tom Taber, Lee Dexter, Karl Karlstrom, et al. (early 70's) Sep 1, 2007