Mountain Project Logo

Areas in West Elden

Downtown 16 / 2 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Uptown 20 / 2 / 1 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 28

Description

The West Elden climbing area is made up of a 80' tall Dacite cliff which hosts a large number of traditional routes. This climbing expanse houses excellent crack, slab and face climbs of all grades. West Elden has morning shade and afternoon sun. The crag also sits at about 7000' making it a great summertime get away. It is climbable in the fall and spring, but don't' count on it as weather in Flagstaff is difficult to predict.



In his excellent and comprehensive book, A Cheap Way to Fly, Tim Toula breaks West Elden into Uptown, which is north of the fence, and Downtown, which is south of the fence. To aid in the use of his guide I have kept the same labels here.



Getting There

Drive north out of Flagstaff on Highway 180 for about three miles. After passing the Museum of Northern Arizona (which is on the left) look for a right hand turn on to Shultz Pass Road. Take this turn and drive about 1/4 mile to a fork in the road. The left fork continues on Shultz Pass Road while the right is Mount Elden Lookout Road. Take the right fork and drive about three and a half miles to the parking area. Approximately two miles of this drive is on pavement and one and a half miles on a well maintained dirt road. The parking for West Elden is in two pullouts on the right hand side of the road. There is a small kiosk at the first pullout.

47 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: West Elden Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at West Elden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4- 6B
Slab Problem
Boulder
V4 6B
The Impossible Problem
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Easy Pieces
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Deception Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zit Slab
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracktus
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Verse in Ragtime
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Doug Scott Route
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Prow
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Middle Deception Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Diosa
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Watermelon
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Point
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kid Gloves
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Twilight Zone
Trad
Slab Problem Uptown V4- 6B Boulder
The Impossible Problem Downtown V4 6B Boulder
Five Easy Pieces Uptown 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Right Deception Crack Uptown 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Zit Slab Uptown 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cracktus Downtown 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Verse in Ragtime Uptown 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Sport
Doug Scott Route Downtown 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Prow Uptown 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Middle Deception Crack Uptown 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
La Diosa Downtown 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Watermelon Downtown 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
The Point Downtown 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Kid Gloves Downtown 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Twilight Zone Downtown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in West Elden »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

I left a green chalk bag (Sortbaggers brand) near downtown area on fourth of July. If anyone finds it i would be happy reward you. Jul 21, 2017
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
if anyone should find a white Hydroflask with "friends of the dunes" and "hemp history week" stickers, hit me up... I do miss it so. Jul 1, 2017
Just spent a day at West Elden with my sons on a hot day in Flag. First day there in 32 years. Loved the place then, still love it now. Many, many great memories. Very surprised to see how overgrown it is, and how moss and lichen are starting to reclaim some of the great bouldering. Guess there are new areas around Flag where the climbing is just as good or better . . . . Aug 4, 2016
ericm  
Yeah J-

The route follows the 2 bolts and then straight up past the gear to the top. It was a walk off then, but I always thought it should have an anchor because the walk off is lame. There is a large loose block that you have to climb around. It always scared me. I drilled an anchor recently and replaced the bolts. I now feel the route should follow the arete more closely and I want to retro bolt the arete, which I think will make for a better line. As well I want to re engineer the start and make the whole line more direct. In all not a bad route that I rated 5.8 years ago. I called it My Opinion-

I encourage you to go and TR/lead and clean it up a bit- She needs some love for sure and let me know what you think. I hope to get back up there asap- So far all my efforts recently have been thwarted due to rains. good luck and c u climbing-

Eric Jul 24, 2015
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Eric,
I remember rapping down that last summer and noticing the chopped holes, I was super psyched to notice today they have come back! I noticed some gear near the top also? Any other spray to get me wet?

Since I spend a lot of time out there working, Id be psyched to give some input when the time comes. I know in the past the FS has worked directly with us on maintenance at the crag. The death trees that were cut up there were done by the FS and I am sure they would be down for more work anytime. Jul 22, 2015
I am willing to offer time and labor. West elden is a hop, skip, and a jump from my front door Jul 9, 2015
ericm  
I would like to be a part of this effort as well. Please keep me posted. Thanks! Jul 7, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Hey Jacob, sorry I wasn't more talkative on Friday. I was so focused on getting my grease on;) I think of all the crags in Flag were people actually climb, West Elden would benefit greatly from a good solid Crag Day. Trail maintenance, route maintenance, etc.... I would be up for anchor placing, especially if the hardware was stainless and supplied by somebody, but I'd be happy the set them.

Let's just not turn it into a party!! Maybe an after TR party. There's a lot of work to be done to bring this crag into the condition it deserves, as a corner stone of Flagstaff climbing history. Let's show it some love.

PM me Jacob if you need a hand. I think it's a worthy project to bring some of the forgotten classic back to life. There are a lot of moderate routes there, they are just filthy.... Jul 6, 2015
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
I'd be excited to help organize an Access Fund sponsored adopt a crag event for west elden. Let me know if there would be interest. Jul 6, 2015
ericm  
Thanks JJ-

Yeah I really like the climbing at West Elden. It is a great area, developed by great climbers so many years ago. I am still amazed by their skill and dedication. I feel that I advanced my skills there years ago. Presently, it is hard to see the state of the area and I want to do my best do be a good steward of the area. Of course these days I don't have as much time, but I do have more money and I don't mind investing some of money in keeping the area great.

Also, thanks for keeping me educated on the current anchor standards. Admittedly, I am slightly "out of the loop" and will make sure that I keep the standards up.

Eric Jun 29, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
And while I appreciate people adding anchors, let's do it right.... 6-8" apart, and the same from the back of the cliff top if that's the best place for them, is it? Any chain less than 5/16" should be left as dog leashes. 3/8" chain is usually the standard. Jun 27, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Thanks Eric. You go to West Elden now a days, and it looks as if Mother Nature is trying to reclaim it. Hard for people to imagine that this was once, thee Mt. Elden Crag during the 1970's into the early 1980's. When these lines were first established, they were often times cutting edge for their place in time.

The place could use some love, as nowadays it serves as a great beginner to moderate crag, with easy access. I wouldn't argue against any anchors as along as they are good. Let the top of the cliff go wild! Aside from that, a little trimming, and giving the routes a good once over brushing would go a long way to enhancing the experience.

Way to stay busy Eric! Our crags need stewards of all types. Keep the old crags alive! Jun 26, 2015
ericm  
I think you did a good job JJ. I appreciate your hard work and dedication. as well I appreciate others who have taken the time to help make the area more pleasant because I think West Elden is a great area that needs a little TLC. It is great that there are more anchors, because the walk off is kind of nasty especially with the myriads of snags littering the top and general looseness of the rock at the top. As well I give a shout out to FOS for developing the area.

I am writing in today to describe a route that I recently resurrected. Back in 2000 I lead a route on lead with hooks and a hand drill on the arete left of the Grass Crack, which is left of Flameout and La Diosa. This route was chopped sometime after, apparently for ethical reasons. Originally I began low and somewhat left of the arete by soloing up the slab and traversing over right where I clipped a bolt and continued up past another bolt to a couple of gear placements, then to the top and a natural anchor and a walk off. Yesterday I replaced the bolts and put in an anchor. I top rope soloed the route and did some cleanup. Also I straighten out the line. I think this old route will clean up well and I am planning on more cleaning and also eliminating the gear placements in the near future.

I encourage climbers to go and set up a top rope and climb it and please do not chop or take the biners off the chains. This is a work in progress.

Thanks! Jun 23, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Sorted the routes this morning. How did I do? There are still a lot of obscure routes not listed here on MP. Dec 13, 2014

More About West Elden

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within West Elden (69)

Most Popular · Newest