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Routes in Uptown

5.10 TR TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baxter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bold is Love T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Fixin's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gone Fishin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
John's Jugs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Deception T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Megadeath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Deception Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Now Smell This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
PMC T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Prow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Retirement Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Deception Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Elephant Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spread Eagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spread Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
TT's Terror T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Verse in Ragtime T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zit Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: ccox and H. Padilla
Page Views: 231 total · 2/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed for Forest Thinning Details


Start ten feet right of the initially dirty, mossy crack system, on a flake jug on the face. Climb good, slabby features left and up to the crack system previously mentioned. Climb a few moves up the low angle wide crack(beware of your rope falling into a slot just above), then angle slightly left up the slabby dihedral with a seam that offers some protection just before a ledge is encountered on your left. Use the ledge, or not, and continue up the crack line that leads to the steep, striking prow/arete with the handrail that curves along it's edge - the business. To the first bolt the route is about 5.7 with sparse gear. Climb up the steep, juggy handrail past two more bolts to a sinker pocket and well hidden chain anchor at the lip. Don't cheat yourself by climbing to the steep lip of the cliff, clipping and lowering. Top it out for old school satisfaction, then reverse the topout moves and lower.
*This climb was established entirely on lead.


Bold is Love is located about 50 feet to the right of The Prow. Eyeball the handrail high above, and the line to it will be fairly obvious. Be sure to avoid the mossy crack in the first twenty feet by starting up the face to the right. The first hold is a big, angling jug.


#2 camalot, #.75 camalot, 5 quick draws. 60m rope.


Climbed this last week and its fantastic! Another beautiful, not contrived line. Perhaps we are seeing the dawn of a new Renaissance at West Elden. Strong work Colin and Helen, bolted on lead no less. Jun 15, 2008
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
This route is awesome. Pretty stout at 5.10+ but it should be at west elden. Jul 5, 2008
Colin Cox
Colin Cox  
We originally rated this 10d because David said it was. I changed the grade after doing it again recently. This climb is 5.11, just as we originally thought. Sep 5, 2012

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