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Middle Deception Crack [Suggest Change]
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 14
votes
Routes in Uptown
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5.10 TR TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Baxter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bold is Love T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken Fixin's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gone Fishin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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John's Jugs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Left Deception T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Magic Static V5+ 6C+ R |
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Megadeath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Middle Deception Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Now Smell This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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PMC T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Retirement Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Deception Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Elephant Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Spread Eagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spread Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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TT's Terror T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Verse in Ragtime T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zit Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | Flagstaff Old School |
| Page Views: | 1,136 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23
Details
As many of you know Coconino and Kaibab National Forests have implemented Stage II Fire Restrictions. To see what this means check this link
fs.usda.gov/detail/coconino…
Starting May 23, large portions of the Coconino and Kaibab Forests will be closed to entry. Yes, this means that many of our local crags will be shut down until August unless rescinded earlier due to monsoon rains. This first closure affects The Pit, The Peaks Crag, Hobo Jungle, West Elden, Solitude Canyon, and Kelly Canyon. All of Bill Williams Mt. is closed. All of the San Francisco Peaks is closed. All of Mt. Elden is closed. This is a normal response to an unusually dry winter and threatening fire season. LARGE fines of up to 5000$ are in place for people who do not respect the closure. Forest service personnel are driving the forest roads and flying the skies to track illegal activities. There is even a volunteer group, Woods Wathchers that reports suspicious activity.
In addition to these closures, much of the state trust lands in Northern Arizona are closed as well (Winslow Wall). Do your research before heading out, because as I said, there will be big fines.
Areas that are still open include Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, The Overlook, The Waterfall, Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, Jacks Canyon, Priest Draw, and Buffalo Park. But you had better double check!
fs.usda.gov/detail/coconino…
Starting May 23, large portions of the Coconino and Kaibab Forests will be closed to entry. Yes, this means that many of our local crags will be shut down until August unless rescinded earlier due to monsoon rains. This first closure affects The Pit, The Peaks Crag, Hobo Jungle, West Elden, Solitude Canyon, and Kelly Canyon. All of Bill Williams Mt. is closed. All of the San Francisco Peaks is closed. All of Mt. Elden is closed. This is a normal response to an unusually dry winter and threatening fire season. LARGE fines of up to 5000$ are in place for people who do not respect the closure. Forest service personnel are driving the forest roads and flying the skies to track illegal activities. There is even a volunteer group, Woods Wathchers that reports suspicious activity.
In addition to these closures, much of the state trust lands in Northern Arizona are closed as well (Winslow Wall). Do your research before heading out, because as I said, there will be big fines.
Areas that are still open include Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon, The Overlook, The Waterfall, Paradise Forks, Volunteer Canyon, Jacks Canyon, Priest Draw, and Buffalo Park. But you had better double check!
Description [Suggest Change]
This route is the first crack system left of the Right Deception. Climb an easy slab to the crux. Face climbing, body English, and levitation get you to a small pod. From this point it is mostly hands and fingers to the top.
The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.
Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.
The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.
Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.
Flagstaff, AZ
A #2 camalot down low in a slot just to keep me from falling all the way back to the parking lot if I blew the crux gear. An Orange (#3) Metolius TCU and a Gold DMM (1.5 WC Friend Size) cam. Then, have a #2 or #1 camalot ready. Once you stand up in the pod it is possible to place a good cam and once again become safe from taking a fall onto the approach slab. Aug 31, 2007
Flagstaff, AZ