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Routes in Uptown

5.10 TR TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baxter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bold is Love T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bolt Ladder Boulder C0
Bonobo V5 6C
Chicken Fixin's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gone Fishin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
John's Jugs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Deception T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Static V5+ 6C+ R
Megadeath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Deception Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Now Smell This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Orangutan V2+ 5+
PMC T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Prow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retirement Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Deception Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Elephant Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slab Problem V4- 6B
Spread Eagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spread Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
TT's Terror T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel NE V3 6A
Verse in Ragtime T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zit Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Flagstaff Old School
Page Views: 1,113 total, 8/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route is the first crack system left of the Right Deception. Climb an easy slab to the crux. Face climbing, body English, and levitation get you to a small pod. From this point it is mostly hands and fingers to the top.

The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.

Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.

Protection

1-3.5" Cams
Medium - Large Stoppers
Slings and Draws

Photos

I just moved to flagstaff, and still fairly new to climbing. But I live close to elden, how do I access this route? Jul 10, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
A pretty serious lead for the grade as the crux is the PG13 section, and as Will made mention, it is an enigmatic set of moves into the pod. You can tease in a #3 Camalot in an a obvious bottleneck pod before you get set up for placing the crux gear. A fall moving into the pod would not be fun, even if the gear held. The rest of the route is really enjoyable. Jul 3, 2015
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
 
For the crux I used the following -

A #2 camalot down low in a slot just to keep me from falling all the way back to the parking lot if I blew the crux gear. An Orange (#3) Metolius TCU and a Gold DMM (1.5 WC Friend Size) cam. Then, have a #2 or #1 camalot ready. Once you stand up in the pod it is possible to place a good cam and once again become safe from taking a fall onto the approach slab. Aug 31, 2007