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Middle Deception Crack
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 14
votes
Routes in Uptown
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5.10 TR TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Baxter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bold is Love T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken Fixin's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gone Fishin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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John's Jugs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Left Deception T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Megadeath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Middle Deception Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Now Smell This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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PMC T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Prow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Retirement Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Deception Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Elephant Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Spread Eagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spread Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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TT's Terror T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Verse in Ragtime T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zit Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | Flagstaff Old School |
| Page Views: | 1,166 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland |
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Description
This route is the first crack system left of the Right Deception. Climb an easy slab to the crux. Face climbing, body English, and levitation get you to a small pod. From this point it is mostly hands and fingers to the top.
The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.
Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.
The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.
Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.
Flagstaff, AZ
A #2 camalot down low in a slot just to keep me from falling all the way back to the parking lot if I blew the crux gear. An Orange (#3) Metolius TCU and a Gold DMM (1.5 WC Friend Size) cam. Then, have a #2 or #1 camalot ready. Once you stand up in the pod it is possible to place a good cam and once again become safe from taking a fall onto the approach slab. Aug 31, 2007
Flagstaff, AZ