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Routes in Uptown

5.10 TR TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baxter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bold is Love T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bolt Ladder Boulder C0
Bonobo V5 6C
Chicken Fixin's T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gone Fishin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
John's Jugs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Left Deception T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Static V5+ 6C+ R
Megadeath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Deception Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Now Smell This S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Orangutan V2+ 5+
PMC T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Prow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retirement Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Deception Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Elephant Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slab Problem V4- 6B
Spread Eagle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Spread Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
TT's Terror T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel NE V3 6A
Verse in Ragtime T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zit Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Larry Coats
Page Views: 1,056 total · 7/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Verse in Ragtime climbs the arete 20' right of Five Easy Pieces. Face climb past two bolts up the arete using huecos and crimps to a large ledge. Belay off gear (1-2") or a tree at the top.

Descent - Scramble down 4th class terrain to the right or rap from two bolts at the top of the right deception crack.

Protection

Two draws
Small stoppers and one very large cam are optional.

Photos

Elias Jordan
Mazama, WA
 
Elias Jordan   Mazama, WA
 
SUPER Fun. Probably one of the most exciting and fun sport pitches I've climbed. There is a fun variation starting up and moving right from the left belay alcove, 5.9 stemming moves, and fun start to a great climb. Gear TR Anchor takes .5-#1 Camalot sizes in a vertical crack just above the top out. May 22, 2014
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I climbed this route again with Tavis a few weeks ago and was reminded how balancy the crux really is. Leading this thing on tube chocks and rps would be simply a nightmare. Nice work Larry on getting this climb up. If this route were to be climbed today it would probably sport three or four bolts. Aug 31, 2007
Given how thin and seemingly friable the crux holds are on this route, that makes the first ascent very bold indeed! Aug 22, 2007
Note: the bolts weren't there on the FA- protected with tube chocks in the huecos Apr 25, 2007