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Routes in Downtown

5.8 Exit Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.6 Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8+ Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cracktus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doug Scott Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exit Strategy V10 7C+
Flameout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Impossible Problem, The V4 6B
Kid Gloves T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Diosa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My Opinion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pinnacate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Point, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ralph Macchio V5+ 6C+
Stem Corner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Watermelon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Scott Baxter et al. (aid) FFA: Ed Webster, Larry Coats (mid 70's)
Page Views: 2,293 total, 16/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The Twilight Zone crack sits in a small alcove about 100 yards south of the barb wire fence. Climb a moderate slab with small gear to the back of the alcove. From here powerful face climbing leads to nice hand and fist jams up the steep crack. The moves out of the alcove are difficult to protect.

This route stays dry in a light rain.

Rappel from a tree or take the walk down 100' to the climber's right.

Protection

1 set TCU's
2 x #1 Camalot
2 x #2 Camalot
1 x #3 Camalot
1 x #3.5 Camalot
Stoppers
Slings and Draws

Photos

Flex
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Flex   Flagstaff, AZ
 
There is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this route. We left cord and a locking biner to back up the existing webbing. It could use some quicklinks and some chain as the bolts face the opposite side of the fin at the top of the route.

Fantastic Climb! Sep 14, 2014
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Got on this one again today and was reminded just how burley it is. What a great climb... Jun 27, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Very good climbing though sharp jams. I spent the time to tape up, and glad I did. Aug 21, 2010
Colin Cox  
 
Definitely one of the best at West Elden. Jul 4, 2010
Dean Hoffman  
 
Climbed this route recently and thought it was fantastic, while a bit heady definitely one of the most classic routes at W.E.. Definitely recomend it. Long slings, maybe a double length runner for protecting the back of the alcove. Oct 29, 2007
FA: Scott Baxter et al. as an aid climb, FFA: Ed Webster, Larry Coats (mid 70's) Sep 1, 2007