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Routes in Downtown

5.8 Exit Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.6 Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.8+ Crack, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cracktus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Doug Scott Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flameout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Arete, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Kid Gloves T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Diosa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My Opinion T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pinnacate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Point, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stem Corner T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Watermelon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Scott Baxter et al. (aid) FFA: Ed Webster, Larry Coats (mid 70's)
Page Views: 2,320 total · 16/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

The Twilight Zone crack sits in a small alcove about 100 yards south of the barb wire fence. Climb a moderate slab with small gear to the back of the alcove. From here powerful face climbing leads to nice hand and fist jams up the steep crack. The moves out of the alcove are difficult to protect.

This route stays dry in a light rain.

Rappel from a tree or take the walk down 100' to the climber's right.

Protection [Edit]

1 set TCU's
2 x #1 Camalot
2 x #2 Camalot
1 x #3 Camalot
1 x #3.5 Camalot
Slings and Draws


FA: Scott Baxter et al. as an aid climb, FFA: Ed Webster, Larry Coats (mid 70's) Sep 1, 2007
Dean Hoffman  
Climbed this route recently and thought it was fantastic, while a bit heady definitely one of the most classic routes at W.E.. Definitely recomend it. Long slings, maybe a double length runner for protecting the back of the alcove. Oct 29, 2007
Colin Cox  
Definitely one of the best at West Elden. Jul 4, 2010
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Very good climbing though sharp jams. I spent the time to tape up, and glad I did. Aug 21, 2010
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
Got on this one again today and was reminded just how burley it is. What a great climb... Jun 27, 2012
Flagstaff, AZ
Flex   Flagstaff, AZ
There is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this route. We left cord and a locking biner to back up the existing webbing. It could use some quicklinks and some chain as the bolts face the opposite side of the fin at the top of the route.

Fantastic Climb! Sep 14, 2014

More About Twilight Zone