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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin , The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Black Solitare Direct S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man On the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird ArĂȘte S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2010
Page Views: 1,859 total, 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Lucky Old Sun is a deceptive and unique line... It's steeper than it looks, harder than it looks, and better than it looks. And it's a good looking line.

Start as for the Scythe, up the rampy slab to the high first bolt. Throw a runner on the first bolt and move up to the second bolt. After the third bolt, start moving up and right past a good sidepull, a 1 foot tall finger crack, and up to a good jug. Keep moving up and right on bulging bronze shields. The holds are good but hard to see without any chalk traces, and this section is deceptively technical and pumpy.

After the bronze section there is a somewhat chossy alcove. Stem up on large foot holds to a distinctive notch in the little roof at the top of the alcove. At this point you will see a bolt with a chain on it just over the lip. Clip the chain with a draw (LOS Direct goes straight up left arĂȘte) pulling over the notch in the little roof and getting established on the horizontal seam feature to climber's right is the crux, while the next couple moves are not easy either as you move right. Once established on the steep slab water runnel enjoy the interesting hand holds, and a mysterious lack of foot holds as you begin moving vertically again.

A 60 meter rope will just barely suffice to lead, and lower. 70M rope recommended.

Someone will need to follow the pitch to clean the draws.

Also the bolts are in the best rock, not the most convenient. Send the tallest of your people up first to hang the draws....

Location

Shares the first 3 bolts of the Scythe low on the Main Wall. First routes you will come to on the Main Wall.

Protection

12 bolts
3 bolt chain anchor
14 runners, long draws, and standard draws
Awesome! The top reminded me of casting off onto an airy Cochise slab, with your belayer out of sight. Feb 9, 2014