Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2010
Page Views: 2,441 total · 21/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Lucky Old Sun is a deceptive and unique line. It's steeper than it looks, harder than it looks, and better than it looks. The featured slab traverse at the top is pretty unforgettable and demands some technical footwork.

Start as for the Scythe, up the rampy slab to the high first bolt. Throw a runner on the first bolt and move up to the second bolt. After the third bolt, start moving up and right past a good sidepull, a 1’ tall finger crack, and up to a good jug. Keep moving up and right on bulging bronze shields. The holds are good but hard to see without any chalk traces. This section is deceptively technical and pumpy.

After the bronze section there is a somewhat chossy alcove. Stem up on large foot holds to a distinctive notch in the little roof at the top of the alcove. At this point you will see a bolt with a chain on it just over the lip. Clip the chain with a draw (LOS Direct goes straight up left arête) pulling over the notch in the little roof and getting established on the horizontal seam feature to climber's right is the crux, while the next couple moves are not easy either as you move right. Once established on the steep slab water runnel enjoy the interesting hand holds, and a mysterious lack of foot holds as you begin moving vertically again.

A 60 meter rope will just barely suffice to lead, and lower. 70M rope recommended.

Someone will need to follow the pitch to clean the draws.

Also the bolts are in the best rock and perhaps not always the most convenient. Send the tallest of your people up first to hang the draws....

Location

Shares the first 3 bolts of the Scythe low on the Main Wall.

Protection

12 lead bolts
2 bolt chain anchor with ClimbTech steel mussy hooks.

Photos