Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2010
Page Views: 3,177 total · 20/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

“Up in the morning. Out on the job. Work like a devil for my pay. And that lucky old sun, got nothin’ to do but roll around heaven all day”

Haven Gillespie

Lucky Old Sun is a deceptive and unique line. It's steeper than it looks, harder than it looks and better than it looks. The featured slab traverse at the top is pretty unforgettable and demands some delicate footwork. You may not want to do it every visit but getting an onsight will surely satisfy any technical climber.

Start as for the Scythe/Rusty Blade up the rampy slab to the high first bolt. Throw a runner on the first bolt and move up to the second bolt. After the third bolt, start moving up and right past a good sidepull, a 1’ tall hidden finger crack, and up to a good jug. Keep moving up and right on bulging bronze shields. The holds are good but hard to see without any chalk traces. This section is deceptively technical and pumpy.

After the bronze section there is a somewhat chossy alcove. Stem up on large foot holds to a distinctive notch in the little roof at the top of the alcove. At this point you will see a bolt with a chain on it over the lip. Clip the chain with a draw (LOS Direct goes straight up left arête), then pull over the notch in the little roof and get established on the horizontal seam feature. As you start traversing right you’ll encounter the slab crux almost immediately.

Someone will need to follow the pitch to clean the draws.Also the bolts are in the best rock and perhaps not always the most convenient. Send the tallest of your people up first to hang the draws.

A 60 meter rope will just barely suffice to lead and lower. 70M rope recommended.

Location Suggest change

Shares the first 3 bolts of the Scythe low on the Main Wall.

Protection Suggest change

12 lead bolts
2 bolt chain anchor with ClimbTech steel mussy hooks.