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Aretes | 2087
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Aretes
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Alpine Arete T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Aretes | 2087 T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Baroque Down Palace / Free Gothic Pillar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Blacksmiths T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bruce Willis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Diagonal Will T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Ghost Dancer Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lauren's Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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OG Gothic Pillar (Free) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Pathfinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Porcelain Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pound Town T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Prussian Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ripe Stuff, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Road Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Russian Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sistine Reality T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Suffer Pony at the Disco T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1600 ft (485 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 38.5874, -107.71815 |
| FA: | Ogden, Donahue, May 2003 |
| Page Views: | 2,629 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Brown on Oct 27, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is some of the best rock I've climbed in the canyon (having done 46 routes here)! The first 5 pitches have bullet hard, perfect pewter granite with some "no fall" R sections. Also in the first five are 2 peg R pitches that you CAN'T fall on! The first ascensionists gave this route .12-[5.9X obligitory]! but they are manageable run-outs on "good" peg, if you can believe that.
The crux is actually a short 10' section on the second to last pitch protected by 2 pins.
The only bad pitch is the last as it is just an exit pitch of easy choss and can easily be simul-ed to speed up getting to the beer.
I would recommend this route to any seasoned long route climber who knows they WILL NOT fall on .9+/.10- terrain!
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