Type: Trad, 1800 ft (545 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Layton Kor & John Kerr, 1960s
Page Views: 4,418 total · 19/month
Shared By: justin dubois on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The Porcelain Arete is one formation upriver from the Painted Wall. Its position, scale, and terrain dictate a distinct "rockineering" feel. A tad bushy and a bit loose, never the less, a great adventure at a reasonable grade. It has mind-bending views of the aretes and the immense Northerm Arete of the Painted Wall.

Gain a grassy ledge after climbing 200-300 feet up the gash between Painted Wall and Porcelain. From the far right side of the ledge, follow obvious, bushy sluices for 250' before an improbable and airy traverse left 75' on peg deviates from the cracks under a steep section.

Head up the next obvious, sluice for 250', until a series of corners present themselves above. Head up these, for another 300' or so, praying that these corners will allow passage left onto the main face. We stepped around at an arbitrary point only to be rewarded by an immaculate, 5.10 finger crack in a perfect, grey shield.

Continue up and left under another steep, scary section, passing some wicked death blocks. Gaining a pleasant & easy ramp system, traverse up and left until the mother all bushy sluices on the right appears the easiest exit.

300' more nebulous fun eventually leads to the top.

Protection Suggest change

One to two sets of cams to 3", depending on pitch lengths. One #4 Camalot is nice. Bring gobs and gobs of runners.

Photos

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