Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||2,044 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Jay 1975 on Jul 13, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Pitch 2: Climb the thin crack around a bulge; wander 130' up to a grassy ledge with a large boulder. 5.9.
Pitch 3: A cairn marks the start of this pitch; straight up from the last belay, face climb a short distance to a block; surmount the block and continue up the crack, bushwhacking along the way up this left-facing corner to a ledge on the left. Belay from the 2nd ledge up with a large block on it. 5.10; 100'.
Pitch 4: Dicey moves out right from the ledge; Loweballs useful. Continue right and up the face (small pro) to a ledge; traverse back left 30 feet. Down 8 feet to a belay ledge with a flat boulder. 5.10; 90'.
Pitch 5: Move left off the belay to the base of a chimney. Climb the dirty chimney for 60 feet, then traverse left under the huge chimney. Good pro up under the roof. Exit around the corner to a huge belay ledge. 5.9; 80'.
Pitch 6: Continue up left-facing corner for 15 feet; surmount huge flake and continue up face/ slab for 110' to a large, right-facing dihedral/ chimney with rotten rock. Climb cracks in rotten rock to a large belay ledge. 5.10; 180'.
Walk to climber's right and 3rd class up gully system (caution!) to rim. Bushwhack and hike to Exclamation Point Trail.
This route provides all the standard Black Canyon fare: some loose rock, some good rock, some dirty chimney climbing, face climbing, traverses, and good exposure. It will clean up nicely after a few more have ventured on it. Enjoy the "Road Head"!