Baroque Down Palace / Free Gothic Pillar

This is a great route that climbs the right side of the Gothic Pillar formation and possibly joins the original Kor/Webster Gothic Pillar route for its last pitch or two (it is hard to tell, because the climbing becomes ambiguous, and there are many possible variations here). Baroque Down Palace and Free Gothic Pillar are listed as two separate routes in the Zeilman guidebook, but they seem to be very similar or possibly the same line. The line described here is what we climbed following the topo for the Free Gothic Pillar route in the Zeilman guidebook. That being said, I think we would have followed the same line if we were carrying the topo for Baroque Down Palace from the older Williams guidebook instead (probably with more route-finding challenges). In any case, this route has incredible position and exposure at a relatively moderate grade with good rock and a bit of spice - highly recommended. With the Zeilman topo, this was a very straightforward route with little route-finding challenges.

Approach

Go down the SOB Gully to the to the river, and head down stream to the Hooker Buttress. From here, multiple scrambling options lead to the lower terrace and then to the upper terrace (~300 feet, 4th Class - 5.8, depending on your route). From the left edge of the upper terrace, continue scrambling up and left for several hundred feet more (5.7ish). The route starts just to the left of the obvious, white, water streaks below a left-facing dihedral.

P1: 5.11-, 60m. Climb the obvious, left-facing dihedral for a bit, then step left to a steep crack with lots of face holds, and climb it to a narrow ledge (crux). Traverse this ledge a ways left, and belay below a right-facing corner.

P2: 5.10+ (.9+R), 60m. Climb the dihedral and the crack system that follows to a big pegmatite band. Angle up and right across the peg (spicy). Once across, cut back left on runout but easy terrain to a belay at a slingable horn below another peg band.

P3: 5.11- (.10R), 35m. Climb the unprotected pegmatite seam directly above the belay (.10 R) for about 20 feet where it opens up and accepts good gear. The climbing in this section is fairly secure, but a fall would be bad, as it would be onto the ledge. Continue a bit more up this crack system, then step left to a steep hand crack. Follow this up to the big roof band. Weasel around the roof to the left, and belay on a ledge a bit higher.

P4: 5.10, 60m. Step left, and climb a groove feature that eventually ends in some steep hand jams. After this, things get a bit easier. Run the rope out to its end and belay.

P5: 5.9, 60m. Continue up easier terrain with many variations possible. Belay below a big bushy chimney.

P6: 5.9, 70m. Climb a little way up the chimney, then bust out right before it gets too bushy. Continue up cracks and face until rope’s end.

P7: 5.9, 60m. This is one more choose your own adventure pitch. Take it to the top of the detached pillar.

P8: 5.7, 30m. After enjoying the view, downclimb to the notch (5.5), then climb up to the rim proper (5.7).

There is lots of scrambling to get to the first pitch. Start to the left of the obvious white water streaks. These water streaks can be scoped from the North Rim Campground.

Doubles to #3, one #4, stoppers, and RPs.